When we heard about HMX Black Badger, we were – frankly – flummoxed. What sort of watch emerges from rage, I wondered as I went to see the actual piece at Baselworld this year, along with my colleague from Men’s Folio Singapore. So, the press release said the watch features “three-dimensional objects” milled from “solid light.” The science geek in me recoils at such phrasing but nevertheless, I was curious and keen to learn what alchemical tricks James Thompson – the MB&F friend of the moment – had used to transform his rage into solid light. First of all, this is a new version of the HMX, so-called because it was the anniversary piece from MB&F in 2015. At that time, it was the most affordable MB&F wristwatch and spelled out founder Max Büsser’s vision for his watches because the words A Creative Adult is a Child who Survived are engraved on the caseback. In a very direct way, this takes us back to Thompson and why his rage against the machine appealed to Büsser (whom we sometimes just call Max).

MB&F HMX Black Badger Purple Reign

Thompson’s creativity comes from being unceremoniously ejected from a masters program in Sweden due to an administrative change in how the university handled international students – Thompson is Canadian. He founded Black Badger Advanced Composites and proceeded to make a name for himself in creating glowing rings, powered by a material called AGT Ultra. Thompson’s rebellious streak and creativity were obvious draws for Büsser, who himself railed against conventions in the watch trade when he established MB&F.

MB&F HMX Black Badger Phantom Blue

Ok, so what is this HMX Black Badger then? Well, the basic configuration of the HMX remains unchanged – it still displays only hours (jumping) and minutes (trailing) via sapphire crystal windows along the case middle. What has changed is visible fully from the top because the so-called engine rocker covers are now in what the press release calls “lume” but that Thompson calls AGT Ultra. Basically, this is a material that absorbs light which is especially sensitive to the UV range; the resulting illumination is significantly brighter than any SuperLuminova I have ever seen. Thanks to how the numerals display with the HMX, they will actually glow in a color that matches the AGT Ultra shade. There are three options with this watch: Radar Green, Phantom Blue and Purple Reign. Each version is limited to 18 pieces.

MB&F HMX Black Badger Radar Green

Specs

• Dimensions: 46.8 x 44.3 x 20.7mm
• Functions: Bi-directional jumping hours, trailing minutes (these are displayed via dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms and integrated magnifying lens)
• Power Reserve: 42 hours
• Movement: Automatic Selita gear train with in-house jumping hour and trailing minutes module
• Material: Grade 5 titanium and steel
• Water Resistance: 30 meters
• Strap: Partially perforated calfskin strap with color complementary to Engine rocker covers, titanium tang buckle