This year, for Only Watch 2017, the Geneva manufacture was producing a first ever for the maison, a Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208T-010 in Titanium.

When it was launched in 2011, Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208 was a horological tour de force demonstrating the pinnacle of Patek Philippe’s mastery in the arena of grand complications. Home to a minute repeater, a monopusher chronograph, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208 Triple Complication was the type of superlative timepiece designed, made and finished to fine watchmaking traditions. This year, for Only Watch 2017, the Geneva manufacture was producing a first ever for the maison, a Patek Philippe Triple Complication  Ref. 5208T-010 in Titanium. It is also a highly exclusive reference available only to top clients of the brand on application (and subject to approval).

Patek Philippe Piece Unique Triple Complication Titanium Ref. 5208T-010 for Only Watch 2017

When it debuted, the 42mm Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208  was the among the largest contemporary Patek Philippe watches out there. Once available only in 950 platinum, the arrival of the Patek Philippe Piece Unique Triple Complication Titanium Ref. 5208T-010 for Only Watch 2017 heralds a new milestone for the 719 components, hand-finished ultra-luxurious watch.

Within the iconic Patek Philippe ref. 5208P, an automatic Patek calibre R CH 27 PS QI with Minute Repeater, monopusher 12-hour chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar drives the indicators showcased on the luxuriant blue textured dial.

The Only Watch 2017 Patek Philippe Reference 5208T-010 was created specially for the charity auction supporting the bi-annual (as in once every two years) Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies research for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. It is the first and only (thus the name of the auction) version of the Triple Complication Reference 5208 in titanium. The material is itself rarely used by one of watchmaking’s most prestigious brands and it was last seen encasing a Patek Sky-Moon Tourbillon)

Within the iconic Patek Philippe ref. 5208P, an automatic Patek calibre R CH 27 PS QI with Minute Repeater, monopusher 12-hour chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar drives the indicators showcased on the luxuriant blue textured dial. Among the standout features of the  Patek Philippe ref. 5208P calibre is the instantaneous perpetual calendar, although instantaneous implies that all calendar indications advance simultaneously at the stroke of midnight, the term is somewhat of a misnomer because of the architecture and gear layout of the Patek calibre R CH 27 PS QI, it would be physically impossible (because of the gear teeth and even with cams) to advance all indications instantly, for now, only the moonphase and month jumps in an instant. That said, Patek Philippe comes closer than most other watchmakers in this area of grand complications.

When it was launched in 2011, Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208 with automatic Patek calibre R CH 27 PS QI was a horological tour de force demonstrating the pinnacle of Patek Philippe’s mastery in the arena of grand complications

Having attended a “Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Knowledge Tutorial” last Friday, I can attest that the perpetual calendar indications roughly transitions as follows, there usually is a discrepancy of +/- 2 to 5 minutes when it comes to indication switching over to the new day:

• Instant Moonphase advance around 12:45 a.m.
• Instant Month advance around 12:25 a.m.
• Date advance beginning around 11:58 p.m. and completed by 12:23 a.m.
• Day advance beginning around 11:15 p.m and completed by 12:03 a.m.
• “Slow crawl” continuous gear rotation Day/night advances

Beyond the amazing perpetual calendar, the legendary Patek Philippe ref. 5208P also features buttery smooth chronograph actuation, itself a fairly unique signature where one can feel the tension requiring a relatively forceful press in most other regular chronograph. Aesthetically, the Triple Complication Reference 5208 also enjoys hollow lug case design which brings adds a dimension of surprise to an otherwise fairly traditional grand complication.

Though the watch is 42mm, the 719 part automatic micro-rotor movement is itself 32mm and is equipped with two gongs with a somewhat leisurely beat rate of 21,600 vph balance viewable, if one chooses to equip it with the interchangeable sapphire caseback.

Earlier in the month, it was announced by Monaco Legends Auction (an Antiquorum partner) that a reference 5208P had become available for auction, the retail CHF 980,000 Patek Philippe ref. 5208P had belonged to none other than the world’s favourite boogyman – Vladimir Putin.

The Most Anticipated Auction Since Putin’s Own Patek Philippe ref. 5208P Monaco Legend Auction

While the Titanium Reference 5208T-010 was created specially for Only Watch 2017, it is by no means the only hotly anticipated auction of a Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208. Earlier in the month, it was announced by Monaco Legends Auction (an Antiquorum partner) that a reference 5208P had become available for auction, the retail CHF 980,000 Patek Philippe ref. 5208P had belonged to none other than the world’s favourite boogyman – Vladimir Putin.

According to photographs provided by Monaco Legend Auctions, documentation supporting sale of the Patek Philippe ref. 5208P was completed by one Vladimir Vladimirovic Putin through Watches of Switzerland. Additionally, as a commercial practice Patek Philippe insists that retailers print real names of the client the documentation on delivery and so, while it is possible that man bearing that name or carrying papers which identify him as such is possible, it is quite unlikely. The auction of Vladimir Putin’s Triple Complication Reference 5208 will take place around July but beyond the dueling auctions of one platinum Patek ref. 5208P and a titanium  ref. 5208P, great anticipation is also borne from the history of Patek’s dominance at the Only Watch proceedings.

Patek Philippe, 5208T_010

Patek Philippe typically commands at least half of the charity proceeds during Only Watch and incredibly, their offerings usually double every other Only Watch auction. For Only Watch 2011, a Patek steel ref. 3939 auctioned for US$1.8 million, for Only Watch 2013, a titanium ref. 5004 raised US$3.9 million, during Only Watch 2015, a steel ref. 5016 closed at US$7.5 million.

Putin’s platinum Patek ref. 5208P is estimated to fetch €850,000 – 1,150000 (most likely for reasons of provenance – aka ownership by a famous individual) while the Patek Philippe Triple Complication Titanium Ref. 5208T-010 for Only Watch 2017 is estimated to raise € 820,000-1,010,000..