As dyed-in-the-wool watch people, we all understand the appeal of fine finishing. Then again, there is finishing, somewhat finer takes on the same and proper fine finishing; and then there is hand finishing. Ok, this might read like gibberish or typical watch bore nonsense but we begin in this somewhat unusual style because you are reading a story about Lang & Heyne; there is little chance that this is an accident. This brand makes Patek Philippe look like a maker of mass-produced mechanical wonders. For some perspective, Lang & Heyne produces fewer watches than a single collection in Patek Philippe’s entire assortment. In 2024, Patek Philippe introduced fewer than 90 references in its Rare Handcrafts collection, some of which are unique, others not, while Lang & Heyne makes no more than 200 watches across its entire range.

Despite offering the above example as a way of adding context here, production numbers themselves say very little; micro brands also have small production numbers. Unfortunately, there is no shorthand or shortcut available for understanding how properly exclusive a watchmaker might be. In the case of Lang & Heyne, the proposition is usually in the movements the watchmaker produces and finishes; however, it is also in the production of dials, which is surprising because firms need big numbers to justify making dials themselves. Of course, if said justification is a specific kind of quality, then it makes sense – and will add to the exclusivity and to the attendant price.

Last year in Singapore, we met the management team of Lang & Heyne because they were courting press to promote the Lang & Heyne Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. In the mix was CEO Alexander Gutierrez and watchmaker Jens Schneider and both of them helpfully explained some key points with regards to complications and finishing (as it relates to both dials and movement components). For the brand’s ceramic dials (on the SHH models that we discussed), they work with a supplier who can laser-engrave these but they hand-polish the chamfers and hand-paint the black elements. There are ways of getting a similar effect but they would not be so magical. Above all, when you are a brand for purists, you must aim to deliver on the magic of traditional horology. There is also an element of practicality to this.

Saxon Craftsmanship

“You can also use this combination of (traditional know-how and contemporary technology) to make it easier to change the colour of maybe one element,” said Schneider. “Maybe it’s also possible to fill one number with another colour that is different from the others because you have a special wish from a customer – a special request. With a normal dial, you need a separate printing tool if you want to change the colour (that is to say, one tool per colour, making it uneconomical to do such variation)”

“A lot of our production of 150 pieces a year requires us to do this kind of custom work,” adds Gutierrez. “The customer – whether a partner like Sincere or the collector – is invited to work with us in the customisation. So if I look at it today, most of our pieces are somehow customized, whether in the hands or the dial or (whatnot)…these are not standard issue models. What we made for Sincere is a partner watch and we do something special for them (including the SHH models). And this is exactly what fits the market or to the taste (of Sincere Fine Watches in this example) – this is our niche.”

This brings us to a sticking point for this story, which we do encounter every time we write stories about independent watchmaking brands or watchmakers. Tracking back to our opening, as knowledgeable as you are, dear reader, you cannot know everything. Neither can we, but we do know a little something about Lang & Heyne – a little manufacture in the heart of Dresden, Germany, that embodies the very tip of the pinnacle of Saxon craftsmanship. Let this story serve as an introduction, with Gutierrez and Schneider acting as guides.

Procession of Kings

As with all the best things in watchmaking, it all starts with a watchmaker, or watchmakers as it happens. Founded in 2001 by Marco Lang and Mirko Heyne, Lang & Heyne was one of those brands that started right at the official start of the current era in watchmaking. As it happens, so did this magazine! That minor digression aside, Lang & Heyne was, from the start, dedicated to traditional techniques but without being dogmatic about them. So it remains.

Marco Lang, a fifth-generation watchmaker, embarked on his journey as a precision mechanics apprentice before delving deeper into horology after the reunification of Germany. Dresden, of course, was on the wrong side of the Iron Curtain, the fall of which presented opportunities and challenges. In 2003, the future seemed uncertain for Lang & Heyne when Mirko Heyne departed for Nomos Glashütte (and thus his name may be familiar to you). Marco Lang persevered, and the company retained its name, and its penchant for astonishing collectors with its meticulous hand craftsmanship that often blends seamlessly with contemporary machining. Lang’s commitment to the craft was thus further recognized in 2005 when he was inducted into the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), underscoring the brand’s dedication to independent watchmaking excellence.

Lang & Heyne’s timepieces are deeply rooted in Saxon tradition, often named after historical figures from the Fürstenzug, a monumental mural in Dresden depicting the region’s rulers. This homage is evident in models like the Friedrich August I and König Johann, each reflecting the elegance and grandeur of their namesakes. It also explains the relationship between collection names such as Friedrich August I, Friedrich II and Friedrich III. There are eight collections in total and it is certainly quirky but when your annual production is as it is here, that is to be expected. What is completely unexpected and also totally quirky is the famed (relatively speaking) triple-lug design. This, and the harmonious blend of vintage aesthetics with contemporary innovations, set Lang & Heyne apart in the world of haute horlogerie.

Contemporary Traditions

Speaking of that point in particular, the movement architecture of something like the Calibre VIII that powers the Georg displays exactly what makes Lang & Heyne both traditional yet utterly contemporary. Happily, Gutierrez and Schneider concur.

“It has stainless steel cocks (or bridges) for every wheel, separate ones (unlike the train bridges that obscure the wheels) and so it’s very open,” said Schneider. “So, if you have a customer who wants to understand how a movement works, you can show him very well.”

“And I think it shows perfectly the combination of watchmaking heritage when you see how the main plate looks; how all the components have been finished (which you can explain and point out easily); how they look,” Gutierrez adds. “And on the other hand, in terms of architecture, it’s very contemporary (because most movements do not look like this, by tradition). This is the perfect combination of heritage and the contemporary approach because we are based in Dresden, not Glashütte, so we are not forced to respect any rules (the Glashütte standard three- quarter plate, for one thing).”

Obviously then, at the core of Lang & Heyne’s philosophy is an unwavering commitment to handcraftsmanship not just because it is traditional but also because it can flexible and, paradoxically, contemporary. With a limited annual production of approximately 150-200 watches (50 of these are in the Hektor collection, which is the newest and most contemporary of all Lang & Heyne watches), each piece is a testament to meticulous artistry. The brand prides itself on producing 95 percent of each movement in- house, ensuring unparalleled quality and attention to detail. The finishing of components, such as the domed stainless steel bridges, showcases a level of refinement that captivates connoisseurs and collectors alike. If the pictures do not convince you, go make an appointment at Sincere Fine Watches to see the real thing.

Higher Values

On that note though, Lang & Heyne is exclusive enough that you cannot just walk into a store and buy one – because there simply are not enough of the watches to go around, or keep on hand just to show. This is by design, according to Gutierrez. “So, we don’t want to grow in terms of numbers, meaning making and selling more watches. We don’t want to be a brand developing hundreds or even 1,000 pieces a year. This is not the target for us. For us, the idea is the raise the offer in terms of craftsmanship. So today we are offering ceramic for dials (and we have a master craftsperson who was from the famous Meisen factory working on these sorts of dials) as well as different enamelling techniques, and (soon-to-be- revealed) complications. So, higher value for the customer.”

All the talk about higher values and such might seem familiar but Lang & Heyne is not doing this just to show off. The brand is very clear that it is not chasing records for stuffing complications into a wristwatch nor making the thinnest watches, nor the ones with the longest power reserve, and so on. The brand does have some stellar complications but the focus is the finishing of the movement, which is as close to perfection as the watchmakers at Lang & Heyne can manage. Fine finishing at this level is truly rare, and being able to offer the chance to customise perhaps just a single bridge on any given movement, is virtually impossible at most brands (or just uneconomical).

Beyond bespoke concerns and related questions on economies of scale, there is also the beauty of hand finishing. Ironically, this is often reflected in a certain lack of uniformity where the warmth of the finish is lacking. “For me, the main issue is the coldness of finish (when done by machines),” said Schneider. “Finishing must give life to the movement, and when something is done by hand, say engraving, you can see how the engraver used his tools to make the decoration; no two watches will be the same. It is like the difference between handwriting and printing.”

Reliably Handmade

Gutierrez and Schneider also point out that the biggest challenges for Lang & Heyne are related to finishing because the firm does not have industrial finishing capacities. They also do not believe in it, not least of all because it would limit their bespoke capabilities. While there might be a shortage of watchmakers out there, it is nothing compared with the paucity of finishing artisans. This is primarily because watchmaking schools do not offer finishing as a speciality but also because it takes many years of practice before one can master these crafts. As Gutierrez notes, Lang & Heyne does try to provide practical training but such investments in people can come to an abrupt halt. “Maybe the guy decides he want to be a blogger or something, and then we have to start again!”

On a final note, finishing also plays a practical role at Lang & Heyne because so much of what they do is based on handwork. This means tolerances will be less than uniform, and thus finishing must do its traditional role as well – reduce friction and keep the gear train running smoothly. Reliability is important to Lang & Heyne, which is refreshing at this sort of level. This also means that even if you were to bring a microscope to look at a Lang & Heyne movement, you will not see all the handwork – some of it is hidden and will only be seen by the watchmaker who services the watch. This too was once a traditional matter and it does warm the heart to think that it is still alive and well.

This article first appeared on WOW’s Festive Issue #76

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