1913 serial production model Santos Dumont based on the original timepiece bespoke for Alberto Santos Dumont

Designed for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont in 1904, the namesake Santos de Cartier is the first watch designed specifically as a wristwatch in the early 20th century when pocket watches were still de rigueur and the trend for welding lugs onto those watches in order to slip them on wrists with straps was just beginning. Indeed, the function of hands-on flight control operations shaped the form of this unique, early “aviation watch”. Eventually, the Santos de Cartier went from bespoke wristwatch to serial production model in 1911 with its precision movements being provided by the watchmaker to watchmakers, Le Coultre.

Over the decades, the Cartier Santos has been a defining watch icon for the Parisian jeweller. Conceived 5 years before the iconic Cartier Tank, the Cartier de Santos has, since its creation, always been defined by the screwed in bezel, square dial with Roman numerals and its soft angular square case. In time, crown guards were added to the initial design according to trends of the day but the DNA of the Cartier Santos remained ever faithful. For SIHH 2019, the new Santos-Dumont timepiece is an understated, pared-down, authentic interpretation fitted to an alligator leather strap. Where the 2018 model touted functional elegance thanks to its easily alterable and interchangeable bracelet/strap options, the latest Santos-Dumont remains true to the refined proportions and elegance of the original 1904 model.

SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier and new Santos Dumont delights with Refined Improvements

Cased in gold, gold and steel or all steel, the new SIHH 2019 Santos Dumont takes the signature design codes like Roman numerals, visible screws on bezel (a major “faux pas” in luxury watchmaking of that era) , beaded winding crown sans crown guards and blue cabochon, and continues the legacy of the early watchmaking classic.

The basic geometry while greatly refined, remains unchanged. Promoting the pure and symmetrical mirroring the four corners of the Eiffel Tower, the Cartier Santos Dumont symbolised the design revolution of the early 1900s when it ran counter-current to the time period’s accepted watch design codes. The Santos Dumont was an early pioneer, highlighting straight lines and breaking with the round cases of the period’s pocket watches.

While it is anyone’s guess why Cartier chose a high autonomy quartz movement for the new Santos Dumont when the maison could just have easily equipped it with an ultra thin calibre, it is my guess that in opting for quartz, the pure, pure, pared-down Santos Dumont timepiece could then be offered at greatly enticing price points for a wider market. With ultra thin movement, it would be available only to the most dedicated of connoisseurs but with the heretofore unseen 6 years run-time high autonomy quartz calibre, Cartier makes the most potent argument this SIHH 2019 with peerless practicality in its contemporary reflection of the style of Alberto Santos Dumont. Able to operate twice as long as traditional quartz movements,  the SIHH 2019 Cartier Santos Dumont’s high-efficiency quartz movement  was achieved with a reworked and resized movement for reduced energy consumption and then powered with a new high-performance battery. My inclinations have always been towards mechanical timekeeping but the latest 2019 Santos Dumont is an undisputed counter argument for quartz.

New Santos Dumont Price and Specs

Movement High autonomy quartz calibre with 6 years power reserve
Case 38mm Stainless steel with black ADLC bezel, stainless steel with yellow gold bezel, and rose gold with 30 metres water resistance
Strap QuickSwitch system bracelet and/or leather
Price From US$5,500

SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier Chronograph

2018 saw the reinvention of the Santos collection and since a chronograph has always been part of the series, its fitting that for SIHH 2019, Cartier re-introduces the Santos de Cartier Chronograph in similar 43.3mm proportions as its contemporary pioneer. Available in three variants: stainless steel with a black ADLC steel bezel, stainless steel with an 18k yellow gold bezel, and solid 18k rose gold, the 2019 Santos de Cartier Chronograph features a greatly modified 1904-CH MC chronograph calibre which eschews the traditional pushers around the crown layout for a more symmetrical look – putting start/stop pusher on the left side of the new Santos de Cartier chronograph and then mirrored by the crown with reset function itself integrated into the crown.

Of great horological interest is how the new Santos de Cartier chronograph makes subtle reference to the Cartier Paris Collection Prive or CPCP monopusher chronograph operation concept found on vintage Cartier Tortue Chronograph models. This attention to elegance and ergonomics simply takes that heritage into the 21st century.

Fitted with the 1904-CH MC Cartier Manufacture movement, the SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier chronograph features a fine watchmaking chronograph calibre with column wheel, vertical clutch, and linear reset hammer.

New Santos de Cartier Chronograph Price and Specs

Movement Automatic calibre 1904-CH MC with 48 hours power reserve
Case 43.3mm Stainless steel with black ADLC bezel, stainless steel with yellow gold bezel, and rose gold with 100 metres water resistance
Strap QuickSwitch system bracelet and/or leather
Price From US$8,950 to US$24,700

SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule

If the latest Santos Dumont was spiritually authentic interpretation of the milestone 1904 wristwatch, the new SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule can be considered a post modern variant. With bridges are coated with Super-LumiNova pigments, the new Skeleton Noctambule looks similar to the first Santos de Cartier Skeleton by day but by night, the Super-LumiNova coated bridges light up the countenance of the timepiece.

The new Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule is equipped with the Manufacture calibre 9612 with manual winding and skeletonised bridges in the shape of Roman numerals.

New Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule Price and Specs

Movement Manual winding calibre 9612 MC with 72 hours power reserve
Case 38mm Stainless steel with black ADLC bezel, stainless steel with yellow gold bezel, and rose gold with 30 metres water resistance
Strap QuickSwitch system bracelet and/or leather
Price From US$27,000