Style / World of Watches (WOW)

The Most Sustainable Panerai (and Watch) Ever

The Submersible eLAB-ID PAM01225 puts Panerai in the driving seat to lead a movement toward more environmentally responsible watch manufacturing.

Apr 16, 2021 | By Asaph Low

Panerai reinforced its commitment to sustainable environments and healthy oceans during Watches & Wonders 2021 as CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué unveiled a brand new decade-long partnership and a sustainability-led concept watch. Panerai is partnering with the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission of UNESCO (IOC-UNESCO) to develop ocean literacy activities as part of the UN Decade of Ocean Science for Sustainable Development from 2021 to 2030. Headlining the watchmaker’s Watches & Wonders 2021 novelty lineup and solidifying their environmental commitment is the Submersible eLAB-ID PAM01225.

Given the urgency to preserve and protect Earth’s environment, Pontroué was more than willing to disclose the list of sustainable suppliers Panerai worked with for the PAM01225 and urged fellow watchmakers, sister brands of Richemont and competitors alike, to work with those suppliers. “We [Panerai] don’t want to be the only one doing this,” said Mr. Pontroué. “Acting alone won’t save the world.”

Submersible eLAB-ID PAM01225

Guided by Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee’s ceaseless pioneering approaches to contemporary watchmaking, the brand constructed a watch with recycled-based materials totalling 98.6% of the PAM01225 weight. Why not 100%? Well COO Jerome Cavadini told us that doing so would have increased the carbon footprint of the watch by such a degree that it would have made this series an exercise in futility. Bragging rights alone are not sufficient, and it is gratifying to hear that the watchmaker did not simply go with a marketing message here.

The case, sandwich dial and bridges are composed of EcoTitanium, a lightweight aerospace-grade recycled titanium alloy that is made of more than 80% pure recycled content. Panerai introduced this material a couple of years ago. Apart from the structural components, the PAM01225 is the first watch to use 100% recycled SuperLuminova on its dial and hands and 100% recycled silicon for its movement escapement; its watch hands and sapphire crystal contain recycled based materials as well. Only 30 pieces of the PAM01225 will be created while a wider commercial launch is available in the form of the Luminor eSteel, also released during Watches & Wonders 2021. This eSteel is new for 2021.

The following is the list of suppliers Panerai worked closely with for the development of the concept watch. Panerai machines the case, movement bridges, and base plates from EcoTitanium at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel. Every aspect of the movement, including assembly, product testing, and quality control, is performed by Panerai.

Suppliers

Siltronix ST (recycled silicon), Sigatech (expertise with silicon), Eramet subsidiary Aubert & Duval (EcoTitanium), Pro Cadrans (recycled dial), Monyco (applying Super-LumiNova and collecting the material for recycling), RC Tritec (luminescent pigments), Novo Cristal (recycled sapphire), Ugitec (recycled steel), and Morellato (strap made from recycled plastic).


 
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