New Luxury Watch: Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Collection

The Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Collection is a lauded series of timepieces expressing high horology watchmaking codes. The collection derives its name Chronométrie from the French word for “precision” and thus the latest Heritage Chronométrie Collection includes two new interpretations of the patented Exo Tourbillon Slim. Launched in 2016, the ExoTourbillon Slim was Montblanc’s highly discussed entry-level tourbillon, priced more accessibly than most of the competition save for TAG Heuer’s tourbillon in relative terms (since the avant garde brand’s exemplar comes paired with a chronograph) and the other new addition to the latest Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Collection is a modern new look for their celebrated perpetual calendar, this time executed in sapphire.

New Luxury Watch: Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Collection

The latest Heritage Chronométrie watches showcase all new 40-mm thin cases with new dial treatments. Eminently dressy, the cases differ from older models of the Heritage Chronométrie series thanks to slimmer horns, playing up the elegance of the high horology complications and emphasising the distinctive new dial aesthetics. In some instances, the dial has been completely eschewed with Montblanc opting a contemporary skeleton of sorts sharing much in common with a 3-Dimensional piece of art than a traditional skeletonised timepiece.

The newest Heritage Chronométrie timepieces are paired with dark blue alligator-effect straps straight from the Montblanc Pelletteria in Florence, given the Maison’s unassailable reputation for leather goods, the suppleness of the skin makes immensely comfortable to wear. All three new models are certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500, one of the harshest quality assurance tests in watchmaking for reliability and precision.

Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Perpetual Calendar Sapphire

Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Perpetual Calendar Sapphire

Initially launched to great fanfare (and great debate – for being the most affordably priced perpetual calendar on the market), the new Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie perpetual calendar bears a smoked sapphire dial (instead of a more traditional sunray finished dial) and eschewing the silvery moonphase, a gorgeous, photorealistic 3-Dimensional, domed moon graces the face of the latest Heritage Chronométrie perpetual calendar Sapphire. You get to view all the inner workings of one of high horology’s most celebrated complications thanks to the sapphire crystal dial and the transparent subdials for calendar indications with dark-blue accents, matching the chapter ring with minute rail and the alligator strap. Refined sword-hands and rhodium plated indexes, hand applied, complete the classic look of Montblanc’s latest heritage perpetual calendar.

Heritage Chronométrie Perpetual Calendar Sapphire Price and Specs

Movement Automatic Calibre MB 29.15 with 42 hours power reserve
Case 40mm stainless steel with 30 metres water resistance
Strap Leather
Price SG$19,900

Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim

Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim

The latest Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim, equipped with the brand’s vaunted and widely recognised pocket-friendly Manufacture Calibre MB 29.24 featuring the patented Exo Tourbillon, combined with a quick stop-second mechanism, in the same vein of another celebrated tourbillon from a certain Saxony watchmaking, is a sight to behold. Where the new Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim excels is the intelligent use of micro-rotor oscillating weight, allowing an unimpeded view of the superlative finishing of the Exo Tourbillon calibre and the artisanship of Montblanc’s Villeret manufacture.

First introduced in 2010, the namesake Exo derives its name from the Greek “outer” – in this instance – the large balance with easily identifiable screw weights outside the rotating cage. That said, the real complication isn’t the tourbillon but rather the patented construction used by Montblanc to make the cage smaller and thus more energy efficient than a traditional tourbillon; it also enjoys precision beyond a conventional tourbillon, Montblanc’s Exo tourbillon architecture utilises a balance outside the rotating cage which means that the inertia (however slight) from the cage doesn’t affect chronometry.

That said, it bears the heritage appellation but that applies to classic watchmaking know-how rather than design – a new contemporary bridge held in place with hexagonal supports and screwed with blued screws is a nice metaphor for how the maison bridges its history with its future. The slate-grey dial with vertically brushed finishing, framed by a blue flange with white minute rail lands a cohesive look to the piece. Cardinal hour numeral indexes lend an air of classic elegance to the timepiece while hours and minutes are indicated with traditional sword hands. The 42mm 18k gold timepiece enjoys a slim 8.9mm, a truly refined piece of high horology.

Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim Price and Specs

Movement Automatic Calibre MB 29.24 with 48 hours power reserve
Case 40mm 18k white gold with 30 metres water resistance
Strap Leather
Price SG$47,100

Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim Openworked

Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim Openworked

The Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim Openworked is not your father’s skeletonised watch. What it is, is a thoroughly modern take on a deeply classic decorative technique. Executed in contrast dark grey and blue, both the face and reverse of the movement have been skeletonised using a dazzle-camouflage design that gives a trompe l’oeil effect, giving the openworked Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim contemporary appeal.

However, the skeletal work is actually inspired by an old technique used in World War I – Dazzle-camouflage. Back in the 1910s, the cubist-style patterns were designed to create a visual illusion, hampering estimations of an enemy ship’s range, speed, and direction; the geometric shapes “dazzled” (hence the name) – by intersecting and creating an almost 3-dimensional effect in paint, here, in skeletonised form, the latest Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim Openworked is literally 3D thanks to components and bridges which mimic the dazzle-camouflage aesthetic, enhanced further thanks to contrast finishing on the various components of the calibre.

Satinated rhodium gearwork against black rhodium sandblasted finished components with the exposed mainspring barrel, blend modernity with heritage craft.

Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Slim Openworked Price and Specs

Movement Automatic Calibre MB 29.24 with 48 hours power reserve
Case 40mm 18k white gold with 30 metres water resistance
Strap Leather
Price SG$55,800