In luxury watchmaking, tradition has long been synonymous with prestige, craftsmanship and enduring value. Yet, in an industry that thrives on legacy, innovation is reshaping age-old traditions. While established Maisons continue to safeguard centuries-old techniques, a new wave of watchmakers is redefining heritage — some by reviving lost crafts, others by forging entirely new identities. Today, tradition in watchmaking is no longer just inherited; it is actively reimagined, proving that legacy and modernity can coexist in unexpected ways.

While heritage watch brands preserve centuries-old craftsmanship to maintain their prestige, a new wave of watchmakers is redefining tradition by either reviving historical techniques or forging entirely new identities — proving that in modern luxury watchmaking, tradition is not just inherited but continuously reinvented. Luxury watchmaking today reflects three distinct approaches to tradition: heritage brands that have upheld their craftsmanship for generations, new watchmakers reviving historical techniques and modern disruptors creating their own traditions while redefining value.

Category: Non-broken heritage brands, Time-Honoured Traditions

The first category focuses on the non-broken heritage brands that have maintained their legacy over centuries, such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Rolex. These brands are revered not only for their exceptional craftsmanship but for their ability to evolve with the times, incorporating modern features like smart technology while keeping their traditional roots intact.

Rolex

While Rolex may be renowned for its robust tool watches, its commitment to precision and innovation is deeply embedded in its watchmaking heritage. The introduction of the first waterproof Oyster case, the development of the perpetual movement and the innovation of the Parachrom hairspring are just a few examples of how Rolex continues to evolve while remaining true to its legacy. For Rolex, a watch is not just a timekeeping instrument; it is an institution, one that stands as a symbol of excellence and precision. Modern Rolex watches bear the title of “Superlative Chronometer,” a designation that assures owners of superior performance across several key areas, including precision, robustness and durability. This certification — unique to Rolex — guarantees an exceptional precision of –2/+2 seconds per day, surpassing the standards of the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

Rolex’s commitment to creating the finest watches is evident in every aspect of its designs, from the materials used to the exacting standards upheld in production. The brand’s proprietary Oystersteel, for example, is a highly corrosion-resistant alloy, while the scratchproof Cerachrom bezels ensure that each timepiece remains pristine over the years. Rolex watches undergo rigorous testing to ensure they endure extreme conditions, whether worn by an explorer, a diver or a mountaineer. In fact, each watch is subjected to tests that simulate real-world wear and tear, from salt exposure to temperature extremes, ensuring that the finished product is both durable and reliable. Despite its technological advancements, Rolex remains true to the belief that simplicity is a measure of performance. The Cosmograph Daytona, for instance, is an exemplary model of Rolex’s philosophy, containing only 314 components while offering exceptional timing precision. This dedication to simplification and reliability extends to the development of new models, such as the Sky-Dweller — which despite its complex functionality — operates with remarkable ease.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe’s reputation as a leader in the world of horology is built on its unwavering commitment to craftsmanship and innovation. Few names command as much respect in watchmaking and the brand’s legacy is defined by its ability to balance tradition with progressive design. Known for its meticulous hand-finishing and technical mastery, Patek Philippe has remained fiercely independent, ensuring that each timepiece meets the brand’s exacting standards. The Grand Complications collection — with its perpetual calendars, minute repeaters and celestial movements — epitomises the brand’s dedication to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking while maintaining an unrelenting focus on precision.

The Cubitus collection marks a bold departure from the brand’s traditional design language, introducing the first square wristwatch in Patek Philippe’s history. This is a significant move, demonstrating the brand’s ability to innovate while preserving its heritage of technical excellence. By embracing modern aesthetics and incorporating familiar Patek elements — such as integrated bracelets and high-quality hand-finishing — the Cubitus offers a fresh perspective on the brand’s approach to luxury sports watches. While it pushes new boundaries in design, the Cubitus remains anchored in Patek Philippe’s core values, making it both a bold evolution and a fitting continuation of the brand’s storied legacy.

Vacheron Constantin

The story of Vacheron Constantin is one of passion, perseverance and unrelenting pursuit of excellence. The Maison’s legacy is not merely built on technical innovation but on a deep respect for artistry and tradition. Each timepiece is a reflection of this balance — an enduring tribute to the watchmaking craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations.

As the longest continuously operating watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin has crafted timepieces that transcend mere function, embodying artistry and precision in equal measure. Since 1755, the Maison has been at the forefront of Swiss watchmaking, creating pieces for royalty, collectors and connoisseurs alike. From the ultra-complicated Les Cabinotiers collection to the refined elegance of the Patrimony range, Vacheron Constantin continues to define the art of horology.

As part of the celebrations for its 270th anniversary in 2025, Vacheron Constantin introduces the reissue of the iconic Historiques 222 in stainless steel. This release marks the first of many milestones throughout the year, honouring both the brand’s storied past and its forward-thinking vision. The anniversary festivities also include the immersive exhibition The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence — having debut in Abu Dhabi in February 2025 — offering a glimpse into the Maison’s rich heritage and its commitment to future innovation. This global exhibition will journey through the world’s luxury hubs, continuing to showcase the values that have defined Vacheron Constantin since its founding.

Category: New Brands, Revived Traditional 

The second category explores how new brands are breathing new life into traditional watchmaking methods, merging them with modern aesthetics to capture the attention of a new generation of collectors. Drawing from the rich heritage of Swiss watchmaking, these brands are putting a fresh spin on time-honoured techniques, creating timepieces that appeal to today’s luxury consumers who seek both innovation and craftsmanship.

Romain Gauthier

Romain Gauthier — an independent watchmaker of exceptional renown — has earned a place alongside the likes of F.P. Journe for his unmatched blend of traditional hand-finishing and cutting-edge engineering. His approach is all about pushing the technical boundaries of watchmaking while still honouring the finest craftsmanship. Take, for example, his Logical One, a timepiece that exemplifies this fusion of innovation and meticulous finishing.

One of the most remarkable pieces in his portfolio is the Freedom Continuum, a watch that embodies Gauthier’s signature style of precision and artistry. This limited edition of just 28 pieces is a testament to the brand’s commitment to exclusivity and craftsmanship. While Romain Gauthier may not be as widely recognised as some of the larger names in haute horlogerie, his influence and expertise are undeniable. In fact, Gauthier played an integral role in the creation of the movement for a high-profile Chanel watch, further cementing his reputation among collectors and connoisseurs. This timepiece is a perfect reflection of Gauthier’s ability to merge traditional watchmaking techniques with forward-thinking designs, creating a luxury sports watch that appeals to a global market of discerning collectors. With its high level of hand-finishing and innovative use of materials, the Freedom Continuum has quickly become one of the most coveted pieces for collectors seeking something distinct in the world of high-end sports watches.

Kudoke

KUDOKE — founded in 2005 by German independent watchmaker Stefan Kudoke — has quickly established itself as a standout in the world of haute horlogerie. As one of the youngest recognised Master Craftsmen (Deutsche Meisterbrief) in Glashütte at just 22, Kudoke’s journey into the horological elite has been marked by a blend of technical mastery and artistic refinement. An AHCI member and GPHG Laureate, he made history as the first independent German watchmaker to win the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Petite Aiguille award.

KUDOKE’s timepieces are revered by collectors for their refined, hand-finished craftsmanship, staying true to the traditional German schools of watchmaking. A standout in their collection is the in-house KALIBER 1 movement, which powers the HANDwerk series. Developed by Kudoke, this movement epitomises his commitment to excellence, with meticulous hand-engraving and finishing that honours the art of traditional watchmaking. The HANDwerk series exemplifies KUDOKE’s philosophy of merging precision with artistry, offering collectors a glimpse into the heritage of German watchmaking. Today, KUDOKE watches are available at Sincere Fine Watches and SHH boutiques in Singapore and Malaysia, offering discerning collectors a chance to experience the elegance and craftsmanship of this celebrated independent brand.

New Traditions: Watchmakers Creating a Legacy of Their Own

Not all modern luxury watches are tied to centuries-old traditions. Some brands are carving out entirely new identities, combining futuristic materials, radical designs and high-performance movements to redefine what a luxury watch can be. These companies are building their own legacies, often combining high-tech features, unique materials and distinctive designs to create timepieces that resonate with modern buyers who want more than just a functional watch. These watches represent not just a new style but a new chapter in the story of watchmaking.

Hublot

Hublot is known for pushing the boundaries of traditional design by incorporating high-tech materials and innovative features that appeal to modern buyers who value both aesthetics and functionality. For example, their use of materials like ceramic, titanium and their proprietary King Gold combined with modern design techniques, creates timepieces that feel contemporary while maintaining the craftsmanship associated with luxury watches. Case in point, Hublot’s Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm is a bold reinterpretation of its signature design. While the larger Big Bang models have been central to Hublot’s identity, this 38mm version represents a move towards something more compact, yet still filled with the same distinctive features that have become synonymous with the brand. The watch retains the signature “ears,” the six H-shaped screws around the bezel, and the rubber composite inserts between the case and bezel, all of which contribute to its unique, recognisable design. These elements are not just for show but are part of what makes the Big Bang collection so iconic.

One of the key features of the Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm is its unisex appeal. With its integrated bracelet and range of material options, including brushed titanium and Hublot’s King Gold, the watch embraces a more versatile design. Additionally, the dial’s ferromagnetic steel construction ensures protection against magnetic fields, an uncommon feature in most watches. The HUB1115 movement — with a 48-hour power reserve — drives the watch, adding a level of technical innovation to its design. This movement, while not a Unico calibre, represents a first for the Big Bang collection and speaks to Hublot’s ongoing pursuit of blending tradition with modernity.

Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis stands out as a brand that embraces traditional watchmaking while boldly reinterpreting it through a contemporary lens. Certified with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, the brand maintains the highest standards of craftsmanship yet presents its creations with an audacious, modern aesthetic. The Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph exemplifies this balance, showcasing intricate mechanical complications such as the column wheel and vertical clutch while re-engineering their placement for a striking visual impact. By positioning the column wheel at the front of the calibre — rather than the conventional bridge-side — the brand challenges traditional norms while staying true to its horological roots.

This fusion of heritage and innovation extends beyond the technical aspects of its timepieces. Roger Dubuis strategically aligns its watches with motorsport culture, a modern narrative that reinforces its bold identity. The Flyback Chronograph, for instance, was launched at the Goodwood Festival of Speed, highlighting the synergy between high-performance engineering and fine watchmaking. Similarly, the brand’s presence at Watches & Wonders transforms the traditional watch fair experience into a spectacle, drawing in audiences who may be entirely new to the world of haute horology. This reflects a broader shift in luxury watchmaking, where heritage brands are no longer just about preserving the past but actively engaging with contemporary culture.

Read More: Sadry Keiser, Chief Marketing Officer of Roger Dubuis, Speaks on The Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph

Beyond technical mastery, Roger Dubuis also redefines how luxury watches are marketed and experienced. Rather than focusing solely on transactions, the brand prioritises storytelling, creating conversations that foster deeper connections with collectors and newcomers alike. This approach mirrors the evolving landscape of modern luxury watchmaking, where tradition remains at the heart of the craft but is continuously reimagined to captivate a new generation.

Franck Muller

Franck Muller’s name is synonymous with audacious innovation, a brand that bridges the gap between the time-honoured techniques of Swiss watchmaking and bold, contemporary design. His creations — particularly the Cintrée Curvex — challenge conventional aesthetics with their sweeping curves and complex, sculptural forms. However, Muller’s true brilliance lies in his ability to marry artistry with mechanical mastery, employing intricate complications like the Tourbillon and Minute Repeater in timepieces that are both technically advanced and visually striking. By embracing modern technology while honouring Swiss horological traditions, Franck Muller ensures that each of his pieces remains an intricate fusion of heritage and cutting-edge design, securing his place as a visionary within the world of luxury watchmaking.

Franck Muller continues to assert his mastery of horological innovation with the Long Island Evolution Master Jumper, a groundbreaking timepiece that pushes the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. Featuring an instantaneous triple-jumping mechanism, the watch synchronises hours, minutes and dates through mechanical digital indicators — an unprecedented achievement in the world of luxury watches. This creation is powered by the manual-winding FM 3100-L movement, a marvel of precision, with five rotating discs to facilitate the jumping action. The watch’s design — housed in a brushed titanium case with a green anodised aluminium bezel — speaks to Franck Muller’s meticulous craftsmanship, as only 100 pieces will be made, exclusively for the Asia-Pacific market. The Master Jumper’s exceptional mechanism and innovative presentation are a testament to Franck Muller’s reputation as the “Master of Complications,” capturing the essence of modern horological tradition while securing his place as a pioneer in the future of watchmaking.

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