Paneri PAM00999

Since its founding in 1860, Panerai has been a highly regarded watchmaker with an illustrious if complicated history. As we have reported many times, the Florentine company was known for supplying military grade timepieces to the Royal Italian Navy, and for its specialisation in the production of diving instruments. Consequently, this military character still resonates in both design and craft.

With the all-new Panerai Radiomir GMT Power Reserve (PAM999), the brand pays tribute to its military heritage by endowing the classic 1940s Radiomir case with a beautiful matte green dial. To our knowledge, this will be the first time Panerai has made such dials available in standard production (i.e. not limited) timepieces. In the case of military forces, most would associate the colour green with land (infantry/ commandos) rather than sea (naval divers/frogmen) – the matte green dial can still be regarded as stealthy, made for reconnaissance missions in jungle surroundings and perhaps even in murky water.

The PAM999 is constructed out of AISI 316L stainless steel, forged into the iconic Panerai 1940 Radiomir case (45mm), which features a cushion shaped case paired with integrated lugs (the thick kind, not the wire variety). The case has very smooth lines which makes it as classy as it is sporty. It is topped with a domed sapphire crystal that pays homage to the vintage acrylic crystals of the past.

Day/night indicator and power reserve indicator

The dial is truly a stunner, with great proportions and contrast, making it highly legible in all environments. The sparkly gold hue of the hands compliments the gloominess of the dark green dial ever so perfectly, making it a remarkable union of tones. The depth of the dial is enriched by the “sandwich construction” where a layer of beige-coloured luminova sits below, peeking through the cut-outs of the numerals and stick indices of the green upper dial. The dial features a small running seconds indicator coupled with day/night indicator at 9 o’clock while a power reserve indicator sits at 5 o’clock and a date window at 3 o’clock.

Calibre P.4002

Housed inside the PAM999 is the P.4002 calibre, based on the P.4000 calibre, which is actually Panerai’s thinnest automatic movement. This slim profile of the movement is achieved by replacing the conventional automatic winding system with a micro-rotor mechanism. This drastically reduces the structural thickness of the movement to just 4.8mm. It beats at 28,800vph and has dual barrels, giving it a more than ample power reserve of three days or 72 hours.

The PAM999 is sold exclusively at Panerai Boutiques, presented with a satin-finished green cherry wooden box. It is complemented by a dark brown “Ponte Vecchio” calf leather strap, along with an additional beige fabric/canvas strap with green accents (for those jungle excursions).

Panerai Radiomir GMT Power Reserve PAM999 Price and Specs

Movement: Self-winding Calibre P.4002; 72-hour power reserve

Case: 45mm in stainless steel; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Brown calf leather & Beige canvas strap

Price: $17,500