After making a big splash last year with a three-act anniversary for the Fifty Fathoms, Blancpain introduces two new 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique models, which are now part of the regular collection. We wrote extensively about the Fifty Fathoms, arguably the world’s first proper diver’s watch, last year and this new iteration basically expands on last year’s 42mm steel Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 limited edition. The new models differ most significantly in the choice of materials: red gold and grade 23 titanium. Steel is unlikely to enter the picture any time soon, to honour the Act 1 watch’s special position.

Returning for a moment to the dive watch heritage, the Fifty Fathoms remains the class leader for this style of watch with a fine watchmaking movement. In other words, the new Fifty Fathoms 42 is a professional beater with a reliable engine that also looks good, which any observer can check via the exhibition caseback. We shall return to calibre 1315 later but we must address key points about the differences between the two versions of this model, which happen to lean into the two very different ways of considering the Fifty Fathoms.

The red gold version offers elegance and sophistication, while the grade 23 titanium version projects sports indestructibility. Grade 23 titanium, the purest form of titanium, is lightweight, highly resistant to scratches and corrosion, and has anti-allergenic properties. Both the titanium and red gold cases go well with the sapphire-topped bezel.

The new Fifty Fathoms 42 Automatique watches are available with either a blue or black dial (for both case materials). The red gold and titanium versions offer a wide choice of straps in matching colours, including sail-canvas, NATO, and Tropic textured rubber inspired by the 1953 model. Only the titanium version offers a matching bracelet.

As mentioned earlier, Calibre 1315 is a big part of what makes the Fifty Fathoms so desirable, as far as dive watches are concerned. Blancpain itself states that the movement is finished according to haute horlogerie standards but this does not mean one should expect to see hand-finishing in every bevelled edge. Indeed, Calibre 1315 is a great example of how exceptional machine finishing can be, if applied expertly.

Movement: Automatic calibre 1315 with date; 120-hour power reserve
Case: 42.3mm in red gold or titanium; water-resistant to 300m
Strap: Rubber
Price: From SGD 26,400 (titanium)

This article is slated to appear in WOW’s Summer 24 Issue, out soon.

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