Typically, the coverage instinct for specialty magazines like this one is to go premium when in doubt, or when faced with too many novelties. When it comes to Cartier, that means watches from the Prive collection, usually; the brand has so many new additions every year that we might reasonably miss notable ones, like the Rewind. This year, we think the Santos de Cartier Dual Time should get its due first, though not because we could ever gloss over it; the simple reasoning here is that the Santos watch is often cited as the first aviator’s watch (literally true) but it has not had anything approaching a GMT function in its storied history. Until now.

The pictures, here and wherever you get your watch news, only tell part of the story and you can let your own eyes decide on that part. It wears well, at 40.2mm, and one does have to remember that this Santos Dual Time is quite hefty by Cartier standards. This makes one wonder why this is not a Santos-Dumont watch instead, which would also be appropriate since Louis Cartier made that 1904 watch for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont.

Now, no Santos de Cartier watch, including the Santos-Dumont, are the exact models that debuted in 1904 so the brand has room to play here. We think that aviation link does not need to be so explicit in the Santos Dual Time and the sizing issue is key. The watch, in its current shape, is the right size and does not need to be beefier. For the record, since we do not list the full size below, the watch is 10.1mm thick and is 47.5mm lug-to-lug. All of this contributes to the ease-of-wear that so impressed us.

Movement: Undisclosed with second time zone; power reserve unlisted
Case: 40.2mm in steel; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: USD 9,000

This story was first seen on WOW’s Summer 2024 Issue.

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