Style / Beauty & Wellness

The Traditional Turkish Ingredient Driving Luxury Fragrances

Learn about the cultural significance, global impact and possible limitations of the timeless Turkish Rose.

Sep 10, 2024 | By Larissa Fay Wong
Photo: Travel Atelier

Rose oil and rose extract are widely used ingredients in the beauty industry and are known for having excellent healing properties and the timeless scent it brings to floral perfumes. Most of the world’s rose oil originates from the regions of Bulgaria, Turkey and Morocco, with Turkish rose being the most versatile and making up to 65 percent of the world’s rose oil production as per The Global Times.

The Turkish rose harvesting tradition dates back to over 150 years ago with the Turkish Southern province of Isparta, as the centre of the gathering ritual — also known as “the land of roses”. The cultivation of Rosa Damascena — commonly known as the Damask Rose — is deeply rooted in Turkish history and culture, having been established as a trademark of the region. The harvesting process is a major source of income for families in the region and is widely used as a symbol of love, beauty and passion in Turkish literature.

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The Damask Rose was brought to Isparta from Greece, becoming an essential crop due to the region’s ideal climate and soil conditions. The region’s mountainous terrain and moderate climate create perfect conditions for growing highly fragrant roses, used to power some of the world’s finest fragrances and beauty products. Aside from the distinct full-bodied scent it adds to fragrances, Turkish rose oil is widely known to boast a variety of benefits — from therapeutic aromatherapy for cognitive ailments to the anti-ageing, antimicrobial and healing benefits. Due to these factors, Isparta has cemented itself as a major player in the international rose trade, with growing global demand. LUXUO explores the traditional harvesting rituals and global impact of the Turkish Rose, an enduring ingredient in the beauty industry.

The Harvesting Process

The harvesting process of the Turkish rose is a highly tedious and risky feat due to the fragility of the product and time restraints. Harvesting hours commence in the early morning hours at around 4 a.m. and conclude shortly after at around 10 a.m. This is due to the florals bringing their peak freshness and fragrance within this period when temperatures are cool and air is humid. The timing of the harvest is highly critical as these essential oils are most concentrated in the petals in the early mornings from May to June. The timely fashion of the harvest — while limited — ensures the freshness, efficacy and quality of the product. Rose petals are highly delicate and fragile, if damaged have potential implications on the result of rose oil in quality, concentration and yield. Hence, while tedious and time-consuming, all rose harvesting is done manually, with each flower hand-picked which requires skill and speed to assure both quality and quantity.

The annual harvest is regarded to be a cultural event for locals, with a joint effort by the community with each family member contributing to ensure the skills are passed down to future generations. Rose harvesting is more than just an economic activity, it is a cultural practice that reinforces community bonds and preserves local traditions. Elders in the community pass down the techniques and rituals associated with rose harvesting to coming generations, ensuring the continuation and purity of the century-old tradition. Additionally, the season is celebrated with annual festivals in Isparta, which include parades, traditional music, dancing, and exhibitions. The Isparta Rose Festival is an important event that attracts both locals and tourists, celebrating the region’s cultural heritage and allowing economic growth in the region brought by an influx of tourism.

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Turkish Rose in Fragrances

Photo: The Wayfarer Scents

Turkish Rose oil is a highly beneficial ingredient when infused into beauty products and can be seen most frequently in fragrances. The most common use of Turkish roses in mass markets is in scenting perfumes with distinct well-rounded floral notes. It has become indispensable in the world of perfumery due to the ability to lend a fragrance a deeply layered note that is described to possess the scent of florals combined with honey, spice and fruit. When sniffed, the olfactory senses are met with a scent that is powerful and full-bodied yet maintains a slight air of lightness, with a high concentration of citronella. The scent of rose oil is also known for its calming and stress-relief effects, often used in aromatherapy to alleviate stress, anxiety, and depression. The aroma can promote feelings of relaxation and emotional well-being, making it a popular choice in spa treatments, wellness products and perfumes.

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Turkish rose notes are usually found in spicier scents that are usually categorised as a gourmand or a classic fruity-floral fragrance. The scent of Turkish rose is used to add a sense of luxury, romance and comfort. Given that a rose is often thought of as “the flower of love”, the rich scent highlights an element of deepness and passion when paired with woody notes and elements of femininity when paired with fruity notes. The versatile ingredient can be found in some of the beauty industry’s most popular perfumes, these are some examples of fragrances containing Turkish Rose:

BYREDO Rose of No Man’s Land
Maison Francis Kurkdjian, OUD Satin Mood
Parfum de Marly, Delina
Tom Ford Beauty, Rose Prick

Global Impacts and Potential Impeding Factors

Alongside Bulgaria and Morocco, Turkey is one of the three leading global suppliers and holds a sizeable portion of the international rose trade. The is a highly sought after ingredient in the perfume industry for its rich and complex scent profile. It contributes to the luxury status and multi-dimensional characteristics of many perfumes, often being a key ingredient in high-end brands like Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Parfums de Marly. This demand has led to premium pricing, benefiting hardworking Turkish rose farmers and contributing to the economic well-being of regions where it is cultivated and nurtured.

Key markets including China, the United States and Japan are driving a surge in the demand for Turkish rose in fragrances and other beauty products due to a booming interest in the medicinal and aromatherapy benefits. Turkish rose also has long history of cultivation and use in perfumery, dating back centuries, contributing to the reputation of efficient and abundant harvests. This historical and cultural connection adds value and allure to perfumes that feature it, enhancing their marketing appeal. Hence, Turkish rose specifically, is poised to have large growth potential due to Turkey’s proficiency in farming and harvesting, the impeccable quality of the product and cultural significance.

On the other hand, despite growing demand, environmental and socio-economic factors might impede the market share of the Turkish rose in the international rose trade. In this day and age, as climates become more extreme, Turkish rose harvests are extremely likely to suffer environmental implications that will lessen yearly yield. This is because Turkish roses require specific climatic conditions to thrive — climate changes pose a significant threat to their cultivation, potentially leading to reduced yields or the need for costly adaptations in farming practices.

Additionally, economic downturns and ever-changing consumer preferences can lead to fluctuations in demand for luxury perfumes, directly affecting the demand for Turkish rose. The industry’s dependence on global markets makes it extremely vulnerable to such changes not within control. Despite the cultural significance of the harvesting season, consumers have become significantly more cautious when it comes to traceability and ethical issues. Hence, any negative perceptions or news regarding labour practices or environmental impact on Turkish rose production could harm its marketability and global demand — this may include the use of child labour and wage disparities.

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In conclusion, the Turkish rose industry is poised for growth and attractive prospects due to cultural significance, high quality, distinct scent profile and economic impact on local communities. Turkish rose also boasts enduring qualities, as rose oil and extracts are key components used in beauty products for the timeless scent. However, there are potential factors at risk of impeding or negatively affecting the success of Turkish rose suppliers. To maintain its market position and ensure long-term success, the industry must focus on sustainable cultivation, ethical work conditions and adapting to both environmental changes and shifting consumer preferences. With the right strategies, the Turkish rose can continue to flourish as a cornerstone of luxury perfumery.

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