For decades, diamonds and gold have reigned supreme as the precious gem and metal of choice within the realm of high jewellery, but in 2025, luxury houses are embracing a more dynamic palette. From the mesmerising blues of sapphires to the electric glow of Paraíba tourmalines and the romantic blush of pink sapphires — gemstones are transforming high jewellery into a bold, expressive art form. As the demand for exquisite yet expressive jewellery grows, luxury houses like Van Cleef & Arpels, Bvlgari and Pomellato are turning to coloured gemstones, utilising their Maison’s savoir-faire to transform seemingly traditional notions of jewellery.

With the allure of emeralds, rubies and sapphires, these pieces offer a modern expression of joy and luxury — where gemstones are not just ornamental but encapsulate emotion, playfulness and beauty. On the part of the consumer, there are those who subscribe to the belief that gemstones possess their own spiritual significance. Their frequencies are thought to encourage the release of physical, emotional and spiritual blockages, thereby facilitating the flow of positive energy throughout the body. This is said to result in an uplifted mood, reduced stress levels and an overall sense of joy and contentment. Such beliefs elevate gemstones from mere adornments to powerful symbols of joy and well-being.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Treasure Island High Jewellery Collection

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Treasure Island collection weaves a tale of adventure and discovery through an extraordinary array of gemstones. Inspired by maritime voyages, the collection captures the ocean’s vast palette — from the deep blues of sapphire-studded waves to the lush greens of emerald-encrusted palm trees. The Palmier Mystérieux clip — a highlight of the collection — features Van Cleef & Arpels’ famed Mystery Set technique, seamlessly setting emeralds to form a velvety treetop, while sculpted rose gold brings the trunk to life. The Maison uses this craftsmanship to transform nature’s elements into an opulent display of artistry.

Further embracing the magic of coloured gemstones, the Coquillage Mystérieux clip showcases the Maison’s signature storytelling. The piece pairs rubies, pink and white diamonds and buff-topped Mystery Set stones to mimic the iridescence of seashells, concealing a sculpted white gold fairy cradling a luminous emerald. Set atop a white pearl within a carved coral reef, this design encapsulates the Maison’s mastery of both technical precision and poetic imagination. Van Cleef & Arpels demonstrates how coloured gemstones breathe new life into high jewellery, elevating it beyond tradition into a realm of dynamic expression and creativity.

Dior’s Milly Dentelle Collection

The Dior Milly Dentelle collection redefines the boundaries of high jewellery, proving that gemstones are not just embellishments but integral to texture and storytelling. Inspired by the delicate intricacy of lace, Victoire de Castellane transforms gold into airy, almost weightless frames that allow gemstones — diamonds, rubies, tourmalines and sapphires — to radiate with a mesmerising interplay of light and colour. This collection embodies dynamism through its fluidity and craftsmanship. The lace-like gold structures are not rigid settings but living compositions, where precious stones seem to float, mirroring the organic elegance of Dior’s couture heritage. The asymmetry and layering of gemstones create a play of transparency and luminosity, much like light filtering through fine lace — a technique that infuses the collection with depth and motion.

Beyond its aesthetic brilliance, Dior’s Milly Dentelle is a testament to the house’s evolving artistry of high jewellery. By marrying the softness of lace with the bold presence of gemstones, Dior achieves a multi-dimensional expression of modern femininity — one that is delicate yet powerful, refined yet full of energy. In this fusion of tradition and innovation, gemstones take centre stage — not as static embellishments, but as dynamic elements that transform proving once again that high jewellery is an ever-evolving art form.

Pomellato’s Nudo 2025 Collection

Pomellato’s Nudo 2025 collection expands its renowned gemstone-focused designs into new territory. The Nudo Mini collection distills the Maison’s signature style into delicate pendants, bangles and earrings featuring sky blue and London blue topaz — accented by diamonds for a refined yet playful take on everyday luxury. Meanwhile, the Nudo Toi et Moi series introduces asymmetry and contrast, pairing white topaz and London blue topaz with diamond pavé for a bold, modern expression of colour.

At the pinnacle of this evolution, Nudo High Jewellery takes gemstones to extraordinary new heights, embracing rare and unconventional choices like rubellite, tanzanite, and aquamarine. These stones — celebrated for their individuality — are enhanced by Pomellato’s signature mise à jour setting, allowing light to dance through their depths. The collection’s statement necklace — a striking composition of volume and movement — embodies the Maison’s dedication to transforming precious gems into wearable expressions of contemporary luxury.

Bvlgari Aeterna Collection

The Aeterna High Jewellery collection reflects Bvlgari’s 140-year journey of perpetual reinvention. Rooted in the Maison’s ability to embrace the spirit of each era, it presents a dynamic exploration of the evolving creative vision that defines Roman high jewellery. This collection is not just a celebration of design, but of the profound connection between the Earth’s most precious gemstones and the artistry that brings them to life.

With over 140 masterpieces, Bvlagair depicts Aeterna as “opening a window into a world of boundless creativity and eternal elegance.” Each piece honours the millions of years it took for the gemstones to form deep within the Earth, transforming them into symbols of timeless beauty. Through this perpetual reinvention, Bvlgari crafts jewellery that captures the essence of both past and future — evoking the endless cycles of nature and time in every piece. Take Bvlgari’s Temporal Waters Necklace for instance, where the 16.94-carat Sri Lankan sapphire symbolises the deep, timeless well at the centre of the cosmos, blending the metaphysical with the natural world. This piece reflects how gemstones like sapphires do not just embellish — they embody the movement and passage of time itself.

The Serpenti Terra Mater Necklace further demonstrates the power of gemstones, with its 63.86-carat Colombian emerald cradled within the serpent’s sinuous curves. Here, the emerald acts not just as a gemstone, but as a guardian of nature — illustrating how high jewellery elevates the natural world’s raw materials into symbols of eternal protection.

In the Eternal Momentum Necklace, a 25.36-carat Sri Lankan sapphire — encircled by 150 buff-top sapphires — captures the boundless rhythms of eternity. This piece exemplifies how gemstones can embody the unceasing cycles of nature and time, where every facet reflects a harmony of the past, present and future. Meanwhile, the Emerald Core Necklace celebrates the origins of gemstones within the Earth’s caverns, using a 12.33-carat Colombian emerald as the centerpiece. With 156 buff-top emeralds and 22 step-cut diamonds, this piece acts as a tribute to the millennia-long process of creation, capturing gemstones in their purest, most primal forms.

Tiffany & Co.’s Tiffany Lock Ruby Pendant

The Tiffany Lock Ruby Pendant — launched for the Lunar New Year — captures the dynamism of rubies, stones long associated with prosperity, passion and protection. Set against Tiffany’s signature Lock design, the rich red hue symbolises not just fortune but the enduring power of love and cherished connections. Here, the gemstone’s brilliance is not merely aesthetic; it reinforces the pendant’s deeper purpose of “locking in good luck,” blending high jewellery with cultural significance.

Qeelin’s Wulu Garden Collection

Qeelin’s Wulu Garden collection embraces the vibrancy and versatility of coloured gemstones, showcasing how these stones can bring nature’s beauty into high jewellery. Central to this collection are vivid pink sapphires, amethysts and Akoya pearls, which transcend traditional choices of diamonds and gold. The pink sapphires serve as the heart of the collection, embodying femininity and the vitality of spring. Their lively hue adds warmth and depth, marking a departure from more conventional gemstone palettes. Similarly, the amethysts infuse a sense of mystery and balance, offering a more unisex appeal while enhancing the collection’s symbolic link to tranquillity.

The introduction of Akoya pearls introduces a new dynamic element to Qeelin’s design language. These pearls — known for their luminous iridescence and perfect round shape — evoke the elegance and softness of nature, elevating the garden-inspired theme. Their addition brings not only texture but volume, creating a balanced interplay with the striking gemstones.

With intricate diamond-paved Wulu motifs, the collection’s pieces are further enlivened, sparkling like a profusion of flowers. The designs’ floral and vine motifs, meticulously layered with diamonds, display Qeelin’s exceptional craftsmanship, illustrating how gemstones can enhance the dynamic quality of high jewellery. The Wulu Garden collection reinforces the role of gemstones like pink sapphires, amethysts and pearls in transforming jewellery — infusing it with energy, colour and a connection to nature’s timeless beauty. By incorporating these gems, Qeelin adds depth to the modern reinterpretation of traditional symbols, proving that high jewellery is far from limited to diamonds and gold.

Harry Winston: Ultimate Emerald Signature by Harry Winston

To mark the tenth anniversary of Harry Winston’s High Jewellery Timepieces, the House of Harry Winston unveils Harry Winston’s Ultimate Emerald Signature collection. The collection reinterprets Harry Winston’s high jewellery timepieces through the brilliance of coloured gemstones. While diamonds remain central to the Maison’s legacy, these “hidden” watches are elevated by striking sapphires, Paraíba tourmalines and pink sapphires — proving that opulence is no longer confined to a single stone.

Each iteration of the Ultimate Emerald Signature tells a different story. The Sapphire model pays homage to the famed Hope Diamond, blending light and deep blue sapphires for a regal effect. The Paraíba tourmaline version glows with the neon intensity of one of the world’s rarest stones, while the pink sapphire edition softens the geometric precision of the emerald cut with a romantic flourish. Across all models, the intricate setting techniques — marquise-cut diamonds suspended at angles, step-cut tiers emulating an emerald gemstone — imbue the pieces with movement and light, reinforcing the idea that high jewellery is no longer static but alive with energy.

More than an exquisite timepiece, the Ultimate Emerald Signature embodies the evolution of high jewellery — a celebration of colour, versatility and the expressive power of gemstones. Whether worn as a bracelet, pendant or brooch, these creations reflect a modern approach to luxury — where artistry, and the dynamic allure of coloured gemstones take centre stage.

For more on the latest in luxury jewellery reads, click here.