King Louis XIV’s heeled shoes

The relationship between fashion and status is a familiar concept to all. High heels (or “pumps”), in particular, are a sartorial staple that has had close associations with people in power since their invention, making the shoe variation a sought-after footwear design for centuries. From their beginnings in 10th Century Persia — where they were worn by aristocratic men to secure their feet in stirrups while riding horses — to their adoption by the courts of King Louis XIV, heels have always stood as a symbol of luxury. Today, heels are an essential part of women’s fashion, with celebrities stepping foot out in sleek designer footwear on red carpets, galas and other exclusive events, cementing the shoe as a sign of affluence and wealth. Fast forward to today, where owning a pair of luxury fashion shoes is a status symbol in itself. Balenciaga pumps, for instance, are coveted for their radical design and exclusivity, embodying the brand’s subversive take on luxury — where unconventional silhouettes and premium craftsmanship collide.

The Art of Luxury Heels

Nicholas Kirkwood Monstera 90mm pumps

The prestige of luxury heels not only lies in luxury brand names or flashy price points but also on their detailed design and quality materials. In a 2016 fashion exhibition titled “Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe,” the evolution of haute couture footwear was spotlighted throughout centuries. Delicate floral designs were woven onto the sides of 18th-century European shoes, while more modern iterations featured designers like Nicholas Kirkwood’s Swarovski-studded pumps. Many practices and preferences in heel design are still echoed today in the ateliers of renowned brands. Elaborate embellishments commonly decorate the shoe collections of Manolo Blahnik or Roger Vivier, like finely-made foot jewels. Meanwhile, Maisons such as Balenciaga pumps, Dior, Prada and Bottega Veneta employ skilled artisans to painstakingly craft and construct strappy sandals and pointed heels from patent cowhide leather, silks and snakeskin.

From Stiletto to Subversion

Among the most iconic heel styles is the stiletto (meaning “dagger” in Italian) a shoe characterised by its razor-thin heel and high arch. Although the stiletto was conceptualised before Salvatore Ferragamo’s influence, the Italian designer is credited with perfecting the style in the 1950s. His signature addition of a steel shank within the shoe provided essential support for the wearer, and his stilettos became favourites of glamorous icons like Marilyn Monroe.

Ferragamo was also instrumental in popularising wedge heels — a style that enjoyed a resurgence in the 1940s, 1970s, and again in the 2000s. In contrast, the classic pump, with its rounded or pointed toe and modest heel, remains a timeless wardrobe staple, particularly for more formal occasions. In the 2010s, designers began experimenting with futuristic and architectural heel designs. Zaha Hadid’s groundbreaking 3D-printed heels for United Nude stunned the fashion world with their flame-like curves and innovative use of materials. Yet, as with all high-fashion footwear, luxury brands continually evolve their offerings, often pushing boundaries with avant-garde designs. No brand has embodied this concept quite like Balenciaga.

Under the current creative direction of Demna, Balenciaga’s signature style has been marked by the unconventional. The brand’s shoe releases have been a primary source of virality and success for the Spanish House, taking the traditional concept of luxury heels and transforming them into topics of fascination for the masses in the world of footwear — often considered controversial and perplexing, but always captivating.

Balenciaga pumps reflect a modern sensibility. Where traditional luxury heels often adhere to a more classical approach — like the aforementioned stilettos, wedges and pumps — Balenciaga creates shoes that blend architecture with fashion. One of the most intriguing and polarising innovations in recent seasons has been Balenciaga’s “sock heels,” which sees a new mismatched reiteration this year. First introduced in their Spring 2017 collection, this hybrid footwear combines the fit of a sock with the structure of a high heel. Its latest version creates the illusion of an open-toed black patent four-inch heel worn over a form-fitting white sock. Other creations include the Monaco leather pumps, a sharply-pointed closed-toe shoe with an oversized gold BB monogram.

Choosing the Right Pair

First, fit is key, making it essential to “try before you buy” — be it in-store or online. While some may swear by the motto “beauty is pain,” even the most stunning heels lose their appeal if they’re unbearable to walk in. Knowing your comfort threshold and opting for styles that offer support ensures both elegance and ease as a good shoe should strike a balance between comfort and style. Another reason why trying them on is crucial is because shoes can look vastly different on your feet than they do in pictures or on display, much like a dress or jacket that appears flawless online but rather underwhelming in person.

Next, outfit coordination matters. A well-chosen pair of heels should complement rather than compete with one’s overall look. That said, certain statement shoes — like thigh-high monogrammed boots — deserve to be the sartorial centrepiece thus best paired with a more understated outfit. The occasion and season also play a role. Just as one wouldn’t (intentionally) stroll into a gym in leather stilettos, a gown and sneakers at a black-tie event might raise eyebrows. Then again, as billionaire Rupert Murdoch proved at his 2024 wedding, breaking fashion norms can sometimes make the biggest statement of all. Similarly, be mindful of the seasons — open-toe sandals and strappy heels are perfect for warm weather, while closed-toe pumps or boots work best in colder months.

Lastly, fashion is meant to be fun — so one should not be afraid to experiment with different textures and details. Metallics, leathers, embellishments, crystals and unique fabrics can elevate an outfit, adding personality and playfulness to one’s footwear. While fashion is an extension of your identity, it is also an opportunity to step outside one’s comfort zone. Shoes, in particular, offer an easy and exciting way to embrace bold choices.

Caring for Your Heels

Buying a pair of luxury shoes is something of an investment and that is why caring for your heels goes beyond keeping them stylish but about ensuring their longevity and getting a return on investment. One of the simplest ways to extend the life of your favourite pair is by swapping out the plastic heel tip for a more durable rubber alternative. This small adjustment prevents excessive wear and reduces the risk of exposing the metal pin, which can alter the shoe’s shape and make repairs more difficult. Additionally, adding protective heel caps can save your shoes from unnecessary damage, especially when navigating tricky surfaces like cobblestone streets or grassy areas. Regularly inspecting your heels for wear and applying sole protectors can also help maintain their structure while providing extra grip for stability.

Proper care also means treating your heels with the same attention you’d give any other investment piece in your wardrobe. If your shoes feel too tight, a simple solution of water and rubbing alcohol can help soften the leather, making them more comfortable to wear. Walking lightly rather than dragging your heels can prevent premature scuffing and structural damage, while mindful storage — such as keeping them in dust bags or neatly arranged sections — can prevent scratches. Weatherproofing is another crucial step, particularly for leather and suede heels that can suffer from moisture exposure. A little proactive care ensures that your heels remain as elegant and wearable as the day you bought them.

Shoe Game Strong

Limited edition high heels are coveted by luxury footwear enthusiasts due to their rarity and exclusivity. When released in limited quantities, their scarcity drives demand, turning them into sought-after collector’s items. Brands often design special editions to mark significant events or milestones. For instance, Salvatore Ferragamo celebrated its 50th anniversary with a limited edition collection of Vara pumps, crafted from alligator leather and custom hardware, making it a standout piece in luxury footwear. Similarly, luxury Maisons frequently collaborate with artists, celebrities, and cultural icons to create limited-edition designs that transcend fashion, becoming wearable works of art. A notable example is the collaboration between architect Zaha Hadid and United Nude, which resulted in a series of 3D-printed heels showcasing Hadid’s fluid lines and innovative materials. These limited editions quickly became prized collector’s items.

When celebrities join forces with luxury brands, the resulting collections often become highly valuable due to the celebrity’s influence on their fan base. Case in point — when Beyoncé wore the Jimmy Choo Blake Knee Boot 85 from the brand’s spring 2024 collection. The black-and-cream Avenue matelassé pattern boots were part of Jimmy Choo’s “Statement Glamour” collection and went on to gain even more allure through their connection to Beyoncé’s personal style, cementing their place in the luxury shoe market and making them a hot commodity in the resale market.

Head Over Heels

From the regal courts of King Louis XIV to the avant-garde designs of Balenciaga pumps, heels have evolved beyond mere footwear to become enduring symbols of fashion and status. Their unique ability to blend artistry with function has cemented them as a coveted staple, with luxury brands like Roger Vivier, Jimmy Choo, Stuart Weitzman, Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin building entire empires around them. Meanwhile, Maisons such as Balenciaga, Loewe, and Bottega Veneta have carved out their own niches, elevating heels through signature techniques and one-of-a-kind iterations — be it Bottega’s intricate intrecciato leather weaving technique or Loewe’s bold surrealism with the “Balloon Pump” or “Birthday Candle Sandal”. The role of luxury heels in the fashion world is not only important as creative extensions of the house but also to fuel demand and exclusivity amongst brand competitors. As the fashion industry continues to evolve, luxury heels remain an unwavering testament to craftsmanship, creativity, and sartorial individuality.

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