To describe the Parisian house Saint Laurent, its vocabulary associated often leans on the idea of sensuality, chic and elegant. And so was the recent Fall/Winter 2022 collection that Anthony Vaccarello designed for the Maison. Looks that evening were simple at first glance but the devil is in the details. The collection was an ode to the yesteryears of the storied house. Its bourgeois codes were made contemporary with the Vaccrello’s touch.

Set against the edifice of the Eiffel Tower, the famous landmark has been the location for many of Saint Laurent’s runway presentations. The cool wintery breeze only adds to elevate the evening’s procession. Opening the show was a pitch-black Cuban coat with collar upturned, wrapped over a slinky ivory silk charmeuse dress. Free-flowing against the wind as the model strut confidently across the designated pathway, it sets the tone for the other 54 forthcoming looks.

• READ MORE: Saint Laurent Men’s SS22: A Blast From the Past

The Fall/Winter 2022 collection was a presentation that continued the namesake designer, Yves Saint Laurent, fascination with juxtaposing masculine silhouettes with feminine elements. Case in point: handsomely tailored coats and jackets with structured shoulders paired with body-hugging dresses and strappy heels. Models also had their hands tucked into the pockets, looking unperturbed and poised.

Helping to inspire this latest collection was Nancy Cunard, the British cruise liner heiress and author who, according to the accompanying show notes: “dressed audaciously ahead of her time — giving a masculine wardrobe her own indelible imprint.” Vaccarello also referenced Cunard’s signature style of wearing bangles throughout his Fall/Winter 2022 collection.

Aside from the influence of Nancy Cunard, Vaccarello also took inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent’s deep appreciation for the Art Deco style. Though the brand shared that the collection was not directly connected with it but “the show was more in essence and overall outlines than in direct quotations,” according to the press notes. Still, one can observe the connection through the array of clothes for its clean lines, simple yet sophisticated appeal.

Colours were subdued for this collection — mostly black and ivory. Aside from using silk, leather, laces and tulle, the brand also incorporated faux fur into the different designs. For Fall/Winter 2022, Vaccarello created floor-sweeping faux fur, faux fur trims, and exquisitely tailored faux fur in the richest of shades. These were made possible by the talented craftspeople that the house has worked with since before the ban on animal-sourced fur by parent company Kering.

• READ MORE: Kering CEO Announces Company-Wide Ban on Fur

Finishing up the collection are three iterations of the iconic Le Smoking Suit, further perfected under Vaccarello’s guidance. This seasons’ tuxedos were relaxed and slouchier and felt more modern in its construction.

With subtle yet precise elegance, the clothes within this collection ooze refined maturity and lay claim to the power of simplicity. As the show notes read, “restraint need not be joyless”. Vaccarello has once again proved that his designs are not just pastiche of Yves Saint Laurent’s past collections but a sincere homage to his spirit and passion for creating clothes that women want to wear. With that in mind, he has once again cement the brand’s preeminent status as one of the top fashion houses in the world.

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