Video: Berluti Fall/Winter 2018

While fellow designers like Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making waves with their runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche went for the subtle revelation. His first capsule collection was designed as a prologue to his first runway show in January 2019 and was only quietly presented to buyers in showrooms. For the new Berluti Men’s Spring 2019, Kris Van Assche reinvents the Berluti silhouettes portrayed through the mix of tailoring and sportswear.

Berluti Men’s Spring 2019

While the collection may appear understated, it is all intentionally part of the blueprint for future collections. His capsule line reflects the contemporary staples of every man’s wardrobe, with the blank canvases representing the early pages of forthcoming exploration.

Observing the heritage of Berluti, Artistic Director Kris Van Assche identifies the trademarks of the Maison and reinterprets them for a new intergenerational era. The ‘Scritto’, an eighteenth-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, features in several garments in the collection: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicoloured pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.

Completing the collection is a few of Berluti’s signature footwear. The classic ‘Alessandro’ Oxford is given a thicker leather sole while the archival ‘Andy’ loafer – named after Warhol – is now available in creepers. Van Assche kept himself on the loop of footwear trends and introduced chunky sneakers to the mix, further underlining the brand’s push towards the sportswear segment.

Van Assche’s first capsule collection is a nod to the future as he deployed the new “Berluti 1895 Paris” signature, drawing the line between the sleek, androgynous style constructed by his predecessor. And one can only expect more distinctive changes in his debut in January.

View the rest of the collection here: