J J.S. Lee and Eudon Choi were among the first brands to display their collection for the Autumn/Winter 2016 season at London Fashion Week. Very modern, very eloquent designs gave a strong start to the whole event and left quite a high bar to follow.

For the female power dresser, J J.S. Lee created bold contrasts mixed in with designs that blend the traditional with the revolutionary. Some of designer Jackie Lee’s past influences were the art movements of Russian Constructivism and strong reds and stark yellows did call to mind the fervor of Russian Agitprop, while most of the hues were overall monochromatic or wild stripes and chequers. There were nods to Asian styles as well, with Mandarinesque collars, skirts pulled up high in the style of the Hanbok, and a red dress cut and formed like a Cheongsam. Trousers were mixed in under some of those skirts with clever layering. Exaggerated pussy-bow blouses, cozy wrap dresses and even leg warmers were all used to inject a fierce sense of direction into the wardrobes of next season’s fashionistas.

Eudon Choi followed up by choosing colors with more reserve. Dark purples, greys, and blacks mixed in with light pastel colors giving a sense to the coolness of fall. Trousers had been slashed up to the shinbone to create a shimmy around the legs as the models walked. Also featured in the designs were asymmetric blazers with ruffled hems; evocative oceanic print; while others had bare shoulders on the side. Maybe a bit too lithe for the cold season, but hooded outerwear with outsized structured lapels did offer a bit of a concession there.

With the start of London Fashion Week more new designers have come into the fray with their own specially tailored and innovative collections. These two picked up their skills in Seoul and later shifted over to London. The fashion world will eagerly await what they bring to the table next.