Kenzo SS19 Setup

Inspired by its own roots, current creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim revisited Kenzo Takada‘s original designs that led his eponymous brand to success in the 70s and 80s – Splashes of colours and his signature blend of tailoring and sportswear. The result? A new perspective on the traditional Kenzo code. Presented at the grand proscenium arch theatre, the exhilarating setting is the most befitted for the final show on the men’s calendar in Paris.

A Piece of Memory Stitched in Clothing

“It’s like a traditional ceremony but twisted,”

With floral suspensions, a brass band and a laser light show, the Kenzo presentation transported show-goers into a magical picturesque arena. And while the presentation of the show was all the hype (perhaps due to the last day of the fashion week marathon), the clothes did too, rise to the occasion. The reimagined Kenzo Spring/ Summer 2019 sees a more liberal use of colours than before. Complementary hues of yellow, orange and blue horde the runway, set in sporty silhouettes and oversized volumes.

“What we like to create is a moment in time, a memory you can take with you,” said Lim. Quite literally, a decades-old invitation from when Kenzo showed in the Louvre courtyard was reborn as a print on a shirt and a rubberized tote.

This lineup was ostensibly informed by summer ceremonies, executed in layering pieces ranged from slouchy blazers to oversized button-downs. Toeing the line of tailoring and athletic gear, blazers sported nylon pull tabs at the sides, with drawstrings and zippers subtly adding further functionality to the collection. And as with all the looks presented on the runway, comfort took precedence.

Albeit having the collection reflect the traditional vision of Kenzo Takada, the pivot to sporty then and polish now is revealing. The new Kenzo succeeded in dressing the old in its current ethos, just as how we tend to think of Kenzo: Inclusive but not trendsetting.