Fans of Dior would be aware of the Maison’s sleek, refined style, but this SS17, the storied house shows that it is capable of more, baring a tougher side. It would be erroneous to deem it all punk – this is still Dior we’re talking about – but these boys are no joke. Every trope of the punk wardrobe was present, from string vests to dangling wardrobe braces, as if verbalizing a warning: don’t mess with the Dior boys.

Sure enough, the looks were dark and menacing, with braces-turned-chest-armour-cum-jewelry. More echoes of punk were observed in the check shirts, with evocations of the ghost of Johnny Rotten’s tartan in the contrasting red stitching against the collection’s predominantly black core. Of note are two pieces that ooze sheer punk fantasy: a blouson and a sleeveless jacket and trousers completely covered in boot eyelets, with laces hanging from each one.

Despite the omnipresent bad boy aesthetic, designer Van Assche asserts that the collection is more “New Wave romanticism” and less punk, citing his own “very good memories of New Wave music” from cult goth bands like The Cure as inspiration.

Whether it’s more punk or more New Wave, one thing is certain: the Dior tough guys mean business.