2024’s Designer Exodus – A Turning Point in Fashion Leadership
2024’s wave of high-profile designer departures marks a pivotal shift in fashion, as iconic houses navigate the balance between legacy and innovation.
A Year of Unexpected Departures
2024 marked a seismic shift in the fashion industry as several prominent creative directors departed from their respective houses, including Virginie Viard at Chanel, Matthew M. Williams at Givenchy, and John Galliano at Maison Margiela. When it comes to eponymous labels, recent years have seen Tom Ford and Raf Simons step back, while this year, Peter Hawkings and Dries Van Noten unexpectedly bowed out of their maisons.
Prior to Julian Klausner stepping up as a successor at Dries Van Noten, Van Noten had embraced the possibility of his replacement veering away from the codes he’s established over 38 years at his eponymous brand. “No, I absolutely don’t want them to do it the way that I do,” the member of the Antwerp Six told Business of Fashion’s Tim Blanks in an interview, explaining that he’d prefer them to approach his brand with a “new eye”.
Read More: Speculation Swirls of Hedi Slimane Heading to Chanel as Michael Rider Replaces Him at Celine
Visionaries like Dries Van Noten, Tom Ford, and Raf Simons have left behind a legacy that has marked the industry over decades. Their exits not only symbolise the end of an era but also usher in a dynamic transition, with creative directors vying for dominance in a fashion landscape. As the torch passes in the ongoing shake-up, it remains to be seen if these changes will affect these legendary Maisons’ bottom line. Successors face the daunting task of honouring a brand’s legacy while forging a path forward. For instance, when Tom Ford exited his eponymous label, questions arose about how the brand would sustain its identity without his distinct vision. Similarly, Raf Simons’ departure leaves his brand at a crossroads, with fans and critics alike pondering its future direction.
Read More: Marc Jacobs Sets His Sights on Chanel’s Creative Director Role
Pressure Cooker Roles
It is no secret that luxury fashion brands, especially eponymous ones like Donna Karan, Zac Posen, Marc Jacobs, and Michael Kors, have faced significant financial challenges in recent years. Donna Karan, for instance, faced widespread backlash due to controversial statements regarding convicted sex offender Harvey Weinstein, damaging her reputation and business. Zac Posen experienced a harsh reality in the luxury retail industry. In 2019, The Lexington Online reported that Posen’s label, House of Z, struggled to attract buyers or investors. The precarious state of the industry led Yucaipa Companies — an investment firm holding a 50 percent stake in Posen’s company — to withdraw their support. This decision forced Posen to lay off 60 staff members and shut down his business immediately.
Michael Kors has also faced significant setbacks. John D. Idol — chairman and chief executive officer of Capri Holdings, which owns Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo — openly acknowledged the difficulties, stating they were “disappointed” as performance continued to suffer due to softening global demand for luxury fashion goods. Capri Holdings’ Q1 fiscal 2025 results highlighted these struggles, reporting a 13.2 percent decline in revenue on a reported basis. At Michael Kors, revenue dropped by 14.2 percent to USD 675 million. Retail sales declined by low double digits, while wholesale revenue fell by high double digits. All regions recorded decreases, with revenue down 10 percent in the Americas, 21 percent in EMEA, and 23 percent in Asia.
It is therefore not unexpected that the roles of creative directors at major fashion houses are increasingly likened to pressure cookers. The relentless demand for innovation — coupled with the expectation to produce collections at breakneck speed — has contributed to burnout among designers. This phenomenon echoes the earlier exits of designers like Raf Simons and Phoebe Philo, whose departures also signalled dissatisfaction with the current pace of the industry.
The industry’s ecosystem depends on the delicate balance of creative expression and commercial viability. However, financial restraints and enduring house codes often stifle designers’ abilities to create revolutionary designs. Instead, they are compelled to look back at archival work, reinterpreting classics rather than pioneering new aesthetics. While this approach pays homage to history, it limits opportunities for genuine innovation — a reality that only intensifies the pressure on creative leads.
The Rise and Fall of Independent Visionaries
The exodus of prominent designers underscores the urgent need for structural changes to support independent brands. Solutions such as strategic partnerships, innovative financing models, and collaborative ventures could help level the playing field. Additionally, the rise of digital platforms offers new opportunities for smaller brands to reach global audiences without relying on traditional retail networks.
As the industry evolves, the question remains: Can independent brands thrive in an ecosystem dominated by conglomerates? The answer may lie in their ability to embrace adaptability while staying true to their core values. Founding designers have historically been the lifeblood of their brands, infusing personal artistry and identity into each collection. However, maintaining independence in a fiercely competitive market has become increasingly challenging. The pressures of scaling globally, maintaining relevance, and adapting to shifting consumer preferences often prove overwhelming for standalone brands.
Designers like Dries Van Noten — who once epitomised the triumph of independence — now face an industry dominated by conglomerates such as LVMH and Kering. These corporate giants not only command immense financial resources but also exert significant influence over market trends, distribution channels, and media narratives. For many independent designers, the decision to step down reflects an acknowledgement of these insurmountable challenges.
The Growing Role of Business Executives
Today’s fashion consumer is more informed and discerning than ever. Sustainability and authenticity are no longer optional — they are expected. Gabriela Hearst’s leadership at Chloé was a textbook example of how a brand can embody these values. Her departure raises concerns about whether others can replicate her success in seamlessly blending high fashion with environmental responsibility. While reimagining archival designs has its merits, the industry’s over-reliance on this approach risks stagnation. As Wong notes, “While the creations are works of art, it is nothing new.”
Interestingly, as creative leads vacate their positions, there is a growing reliance on business executives to steer brands. The emphasis is increasingly shifting from creative artistry to profitability and market share. While this approach ensures financial stability, it risks diluting the very creativity that differentiates luxury fashion from mass-market apparel. For emerging designers, the challenges are even more acute. Financial constraints hinder their ability to stage high-profile runway shows or invest in innovative materials. Without substantial resources or backing, young talent struggles to compete with established houses that dominate the media and consumer attention.
The Role of Conglomerates in Shaping the New Guard
Conglomerates play a crucial role in the fashion industry by providing young designers with the financial backing and resources needed to scale their brands. For emerging talents, these corporate giants offer stability, global reach, and the ability to invest in high-quality materials, marketing, and runway shows that would otherwise be out of reach. In return, conglomerates gain access to fresh, innovative perspectives that help reinvigorate established brands. A prime example is Matthieu Blazy. Prior to his appointment at Chanel, he was the creative director at Bottega Veneta under the Kering group. Blazy — known for his distinctive and forward-thinking design approach — was given the platform to elevate Bottega’s status while receiving the support necessary to experiment with new materials and techniques, a luxury independent designers often lack. This symbiotic relationship allows both the designer and the conglomerate to thrive, but it also raises questions about the impact of corporate influence on artistic freedom in fashion.
The dominance of conglomerates in fashion is undeniable, with their ability to attract and nurture fresh talent playing a decisive role in reshaping leadership. One could similarly argue that Chanel’s appointment of Blazy signals a trend of established houses seeking younger, more experimental voices to rejuvenate their brands. This strategy leverages the allure of a fresh perspective while ensuring that the house’s legacy remains intact.
Read More: Here’s Your Recap of Fashion’s Great Creative Director Reshuffle
However, this trend raises concerns about the homogenisation of fashion. With conglomerates prioritising profitability, creative directors often face constraints that limit artistic freedom. While these corporate-backed brands thrive financially, the industry risks losing the unique voices that have historically defined fashion’s avant-garde.
What is Next for Fashion Leadership?
2024’s designer exodus marks a turning point in the fashion industry, challenging traditional notions of leadership and creativity. As founding designers step aside, the onus falls on successors and corporate entities to preserve the essence of these legendary brands. While the influence of conglomerates continues to grow, the enduring appeal of independent artistry reminds us of the importance of diversity in fashion’s creative tapestry. The future of the industry hinges on its ability to balance innovation with legacy, ensuring that the next generation of leaders can sustain the spirit of individuality that defines fashion.
The departures in 2024 highlight an urgent need to re-evaluate the structure of leadership in fashion. Brands must address the unsustainable pace of the industry and create environments where creativity can thrive without compromising mental health. Equally, they must ensure that sustainability and authenticity remain at the forefront of their values — not just as buzzwords, but as guiding principles. As we move into 2025, the challenge for fashion houses will be to strike a balance between innovation and stability, ensuring that the next generation of leaders is prepared to navigate an industry in flux. Whether 2024 will signal a crisis or herald a renaissance in fashion leadership depends largely on how the industry responds to these pivotal changes.
Read More: Opinion: Fashion Industry’s Creative Expression is Impeded by a Broken Ecosystem
For more on the latest fashion reads, click here.
