Simple is not just “less is more” with men’s skincare — it is the absolute imperative. As of the writing of this article, the weather here in Singapore stands at an average of 34°C with a UV index of eight, meaning that we are seeing a lot of red-tinged faces no matter where we go. And we are not the only ones — the global market size for sensitive skin care products was valued at USD41.12 billion last year. Protecting skin from sun damage, vitamin c serum is also known to be an antioxidant that helps brighten dull skin, reduce hyperpigmentation and diminish dark spots.

According to a study at Aveeno — the American brand that has made such products its cosmetic calling card — there has been a 55 percent increase in the number of people over the past two decades who self-identify as having sensitive skin.

To date, we have published at least 32 online stories about what it is to have skin sensitivity. There are visual cues — redness, inflammation and patchiness — as there are physical discomforts like itching and burning. More often than not, the story would end with us recommending one to get an in-depth diagnosis with a dermatologist.

What was the green light for publishing this story then? The answer lies in keeping things simple.

“If you need to layer tonnes of skincare to get different benefits, your regime is most probably incorrect and inefficient. I would suggest getting your skincare needs from your serum followed by a neutral moisturiser and sunscreen that isn’t overly fancy unless you are using that alone,” says Singaporean makeup artist, Larry Yeo.

There arises a possibility that each serum applied over the next causes the previous to decrease in effectiveness due to the interference of chemical processes. Further, the skin is often described as a sponge for a reason — it can only absorb so much.

However, some might argue that the less-is-more approach extends to discerning which skin care product’s formula is right for you, reasoning that it makes it easier to identify which needle in the haystack sets their skin off. Others would say that a product with more ingredients, particularly actives, can be more effective at treating multiple skin concerns than a product with just one. Potency is also of consideration — if a skincare product contains just one active ingredient, it is usually at a potency level that the skin might not be able to handle.

Sensitivity is a not-so-simple guessing game when it comes to skincare for men, but there are some non-negotiables according to Yeo. “A product’s efficacy works differently across different types, but I would always recommend ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), its derivatives and niacinamide. However, you need to do a patch test as our skin has different tolerance levels and overexposure can trigger sensitivity.”

As for the holy grail of hydration, hyaluronic acid can be sensitising too as it facilitates the increased penetration of other topical products. Irritancy is to be expected with increased penetration. According to Dr Tor Pattarakul — a Thai skincare influencer and dermatologist — it is still an ingredient that makes sense for sensitivity. Citing the Philosophy Dose of Wisdom Bouncy Skin Reactivating Serum as a holy grail, its efficacy with said ingredient calibrated for full skin compatibility makes it usable on all skin types.

“I usually use it immediately after a toner to allow the low molecular weight of the acid to penetrate the skin,” he says. As for its results, he notes that “you can feel smoothness that is an immediate sign of skin recovery”.

In the matter of vanity, another concern we had was whether simpler skincare would work better under makeup. Once again, Yeo thinks that it is a personal matter. “It depends on your skin’s condition and needs, and especially the formula of it.” Here is one last piece of advice for now — “do a patch test first”.

This article was first published on MEN’S FOLIO Singapore.

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