As always, Rolex leads our coverage of Watches and Wonders Geneva and the brand makes it easy to understand what it thinks is most newsworthy: the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Basically, what is new here is the first new bezel variant since 2022’s Lefty. The 2024 Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II maintains the traditional crown position but introduces an unusual but somewhat cool colour combination: black and grey. This completely new look is paired with a green GMT hand, just like the one on the 2022 Lefty. Despite the relatively low-key nature of this model, it is perhaps one of the most surprising of the current slew of new watches.

It is important at this moment to address some ancillary facts about the GMT-Master II collection. This includes the fact that no current models have been discontinued, despite the much-hyped rumours about certain popular models. Instead, the 2024 GMT-Master II simply adds to the number of variants currently available, bringing it to reportedly 14. That includes the Oyster and Jubilee bracelet versions of the new black and grey model; the watch needs a nickname but the Internet has not yet responded (that we know of, although we like Grey Ghost). To reiterate, the new GMT-Master II is unchanged in every way from its existing siblings.

In a funny twist, the 2024 GMT-Master II might just be the most accessible offering from Rolex, with most of the current crop of novelties leaning towards precious metals, elaborate dials and luscious gem-setting. At the same time, those who love the world’s most popular GMT watch might be wondering what this means for their dreams of owning some version of it; they will also wonder why the coke bezel remains out of picture, despite Tudor introducing it for its GMT model. Your guess is as good as mine on these subjects but I will say that perhaps the Grey Ghost is a cooling measure of some kind. Or perhaps it is meant to appeal to fans of the short-lived solid black bezel GMT-Master II. More on this watch will certainly follow from experts and specialists in the coming months.

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