Without a platform to showcase most of the releases for the year, Breguet (and all Swatch Group brands) can be counted on to drop a surprise (or a few) on the world. Such was the case when releases on two new references in the Marine collection landed in our inboxes in May. These are the Marine Chronograph 5529 and Marine 9518, a time-only petite model. We had already planned to showcase the Type XX models with all-new bracelets but the Marine releases fit better with the overall luxed-up world of fine watchmaking. So once again then, we enter the world of the sports elegance elevated timepiece. The elevation here comes in the form of diamonds, which in the case of the chronograph model is of the baguette variety. Thus this story zooms in on reference 5529, even though the time-only watch probably has a clearer audience in mind.

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Our rationale for considering the reference 5529 is that the size of more than 42mm here, coupled with the distinctive Marine lugs, makes the chronograph wear a bit large. Also, it is a chronograph and this complication is not available in the Reine de Naples range (more on this in a bit) while every Breguet family of watches has a time-only proposition. In fact, the chronograph is only present in the Type XX and Marine collections, and this version is powered by the self-winding calibre 582 QA. For some collectors, this calibre alone earns the Breguet Marine family a lot of credibility. Of course, reference 5529 does not lean very hard into this, which is more than appropriate for a watch at this price point (see below).

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That price is a result of the gold (white or red) case, gold dial and the 98 baguette- cut diamonds (90 on the bezel and eight on the dial). As we noted in the Spring issue, and indeed many times over the last 10 years, the baguette-cut signifies something special to those in the know. Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca is certainly in the know, and we predict that reference 5529 will be a significant entry into the sports elegance elevated watch trend. On the commercial side, ladies who want a Breguet chronograph will have to look to the Marine collection, rather than to the brand’s top-selling range. That seems quite promising to us, given that the Marine collection is often overshadowed by more famous ranges.

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None of this should be taken to mean that reference 9518 is an afterthought. At 33.8mm and cased in steel, the watch signals that Breguet wants to build an audience for the Marine collection. Note that the price of the watch is effectively “on application,” which means you will have to assess it for yourself.

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Movement: Automatic calibre 582 QA with chronograph and date; 48-hour power reserve
Case: 42.3mm in white gold or red gold (bezel and dial set with diamonds); water-resistant
Strap: Rubber or leather
Price: USD 186,400

This article first appeared on WOW’s Summer 2024 issue.

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