Bracelets continue to make their mark in watchmaking, this time with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de lune 5054. The collection and the complication might be familiar to enthusiasts and Blancpain collectors but this is the first time both have come together – dive watches with full calendars and moon phase displays are a rarity, and we will address the whys a little later on. Despite this qualified newness, what really grabs attention here is the introduction of a bracelet and case in black ceramic. While Blancpain does have Fifty Fathoms models in ceramic and bracelets in various materials, the brand has never ventured into the realm of the full ceramic bracelet.

Leading from this, let us explain about the new “high-tech ceramic” bracelet for the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de lune 5054, which we will henceforth refer to as the Bathyscaphe 5054 (though we are sorely tempted to call it the Black Bath). The presence of such a bracelet at Blancpain may remind more astute collectors that Swatch Group certainly has the means and know-how to work this material. The Group’s Comadur specialist firm (sapphire crystal and ceramics) has long worked, hand-in-glove, with Rado, Omega and, yes, Blancpain too (note the unique sapphire bezel of the Fifty Fathoms). One does have to wonder why it took so long for a ceramic bracelet to debut at Blancpain, especially given that the Bathyscaphe model has had a ceramic model for years.

The answer to the above question is finishing of course. Ceramic tends to give watches an ultra-contemporary feel, and hand-finishing options are limited. Well, Blancpain has blown past all such limitations, declaring that the individual bracelet links, buckles and the case itself are all hand-finished by “in-house experts.” Given that Blancpain operates at quite a different level to most of its stablemates in the Group, reserving a (literal) special touch for its offerings is a priority. Now, about the high-tech ceramic itself, Blancpain says it is 25 percent lighter than steel while being nearly five times harder. Aside from the Bathyscaphe 5054, this material is also used with the time-only model and the chronograph, both of which also now have the same bracelet option.

While we have not given this watch the old touch-and-feel, Blancpain is raising expectations on its bracelet, claiming ideal ergonomics and comfort. The firm also claims that the mounting process for the individual links is patented. One question that will linger in the minds of those familiar with bracelets is how the links are held together, and here the brand says cam-shaped pins are in play. However, one of the supplied visuals very clearly shows screws so we were left scratching our heads and wondering if we really know anything about bracelets after all.

With regards to the Bathyscaphe 5054, we will end on a note about the complication and the case. The 300m water-resistance is superb and certainly puts this complicated timepiece in a class of its own. The movement is the reliable Blancpain calibre 6654.P4, which in other guises should be familiar to Blancpain collectors. These collectors should keep in mind that the Bathyscaphe 5054 Is a 43.6mm watch so it is a bit of a big boy. We are eager to discover how the bracelet and lugs come together to handle this size while keeping things elegant.

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