Leaders / Lifestyle

Martell Cellar Master Christophe Valtaud on Crafting a New Legacy in Cognac

Christophe Valtaud discusses Martell’s unique philosophy, and how he is shaping the future of Cognac while staying rooted in its rich heritage.

Nov 12, 2024 | By Sanjeeva Suresh

Christophe Valtaud — Martell’s esteemed Cellar Master — leads the charge in preserving and evolving the heritage of one of France’s oldest Cognac houses. With a scientific background and a deep commitment to craftsmanship, Valtaud is pushing the boundaries of tradition while ensuring Martell’s future in a competitive luxury market. Raised in the heart of the Cognac region, Valtaud comes from a family with a longstanding legacy of grape growing spanning several generations. Immersed in this environment, Valtaud quickly realised that the luxury and quality of Cognac are rooted in the terroir — the distinctive soil and the unique, limited region where the grapes are cultivated. He soon understood that the deep connection to nature, along with the generations of expertise passed down by those who work the land, is what makes Cognac truly exceptional.

Speaking exclusively to LUXUO, he shares insights into his unique approach to cognac-making, the challenges of modernisation, the debut of the debut of Martell‘s private cask programme – Les Futs Uniques de Martell and his vision for Martell’s legacy. To the right sits Martell Senior Master Blender Christian Guerin and to the right is Pernod Ricard’s Chris Maloney, the Global Head of Prestige Delivery.

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With the role of Martell Cellar Master, clue us in to how you nurtured your expertise in terroir, distillation and blending.

Becoming a Cellar Master is a long journey, often taking around ten years of training. I was born in the heart of the Cognac region, and my family’s legacy spans generations of grape growers. As a Cellar Master, you inherit this wealth of knowledge. From the moment I began my training, I understood the importance of terroir, distillation, and the role each plays in crafting the final product. I am also a distiller myself, having learned the craft at a young age through my own family vineyard. Distillation is where we concentrate all the qualities of the wine, and from there, blending and aging take place.

The Cellar Master is the only role within the company that oversees the process from vine to glass. My job is to ensure quality at every stage, from working with the producers to selecting the best liquid for future creations. I am constantly thinking decades ahead — at least 40 years into the future. When creating special collections or new products, it’s essential to plan long-term because what I create today will be used in products many years from now. My responsibility is not only to preserve this legacy but to prepare for the future by ensuring that the next generation of liquid is ready for crafting exceptional Cognacs.

As the ninth generation of Martell Cellar Masters, what challenges did you encounter while upholding the traditions of cognac-making in a rapidly evolving market?

As the ninth-generation Martell Cellar Master, my focus has always been on preparing for the future — not just for myself, but for the next generation. Early on, I realised that my role wasn’t just about choosing a successor but about creating an environment where multiple individuals could eventually step into that leadership position. My team has grown from just three people when I started to eight today, reflecting our strategy to ensure the preservation of Martell’s traditions while preparing for the future.

One of the challenges has been balancing tradition with the rapidly evolving market. Becoming a master blender or cellar master requires extensive experience — often taking over a decade — and it’s vital to have a long-term vision. I’ve worked to build a collaborative environment, unlike my predecessor who worked alone. I believe in fostering teamwork and sharing knowledge, which is essential to carrying on the legacy of Cognac-making while adapting to modern needs.

What sets me apart is my scientific background — I have a PhD in biochemistry and molecular biology — which gives me a different perspective. I’m not interested in preserving tradition just for tradition’s sake. My approach is to push boundaries and look ahead. I’ve developed products that challenge traditional AOC guidelines for Cognac, and I believe it’s my job as a leader to foresee trends and create new experiences, much like how the iPhone was created before people even realised they needed it. In this way, I try to shape the future rather than simply react to it.

How does Martell differentiate itself in a competitive luxury spirits market?

Martell is the oldest of the major Cognac houses, and we take great pride in being pioneers in the industry. In fact, we essentially created Cognac as it is known today. From the very beginning, we defined our style, and while other houses have had to develop their own unique methods, we were the first. Our style has remained true since day one, and that’s the legacy of Martel, which we continue to uphold.

Technically speaking, Martell is renowned for utilising the full range of terroirs, but our signature Cognac is most notably influenced by one particular area — the Borderies. It’s the smallest and rarest of the growing regions, and it gives our Cognac its signature smoothness. In fact, compared to our competitors, Martell Cognac is known for being exceptionally smooth, and it’s also free from the bitterness that can sometimes be present in other blends.

Taste changes and that’s why we change. A key element to our distinctive taste is the oak we use for aging. We exclusively select the finest French oak — specifically the Faucher oak — which is prized for its quality. Why do we choose this? It’s because the best ingredients lead to the best products. Unlike other producers who often use Limousin oak — which requires 100-120 years to mature — our Faucher oak takes at least 180 to 200 years to fully mature. This long-growing period allows the wood to impart a much more refined, delicate influence on the Cognac.

A few years ago, we introduced a new VSOP in Singapore and across Asia. This was in response to evolving consumer trends, as people are increasingly moving away from bitterness. To adapt, we reduced the influence of wood, as the bitterness that comes from the wood is less desirable. It’s a similar shift to what we see in the wine industry as well.

At Martell, time is everything. From the aging process to the selection of barrels, we are responsible for managing the passage of time in every drop of our Cognac. We’ve been perfecting our craft for over 300 years, and it’s this wealth of experience, combined with our exceptional ingredients, that defines Martel as a truly extraordinary brand.

Let’s discuss Martell’s new private cask program — Les Futs Uniques de Martell. How has the introduction of this program impacted Martell’s overall brand strategy?

The idea behind this collection was to reconnect with the origins of cognac. For over 200 years, Martel sold cognac in casks, and this collection brings that tradition back. The unique aspect of the collection is that consumers can purchase cognac in casks that are still aging — something that hasn’t been available for over 100 years. Additionally, this pure, unblended cognac is a return to how Martel originally produced its spirits, contrasting with the modern practice of blending.

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The collection is a tribute to our history, highlighting the importance of terroir and how different soils create distinctive flavours. It’s a chance to experience the legacy of Martel while embracing a touch of audacity. We aim to offer a truly immersive experience at Château Chantal, where guests can select and customise their own casks. The experience also includes a gastronomic journey with Michelin-starred chefs to elevate the enjoyment of Martel cognac, ensuring the perfect pairing. Ultimately, this collection is about offering something exceptional and deeply personal to our consumers.

Les Fûts Uniques – GC 32 YO 46ABV

How do you see the program catering to contemporary consumer preferences for personalised experiences?

Luxury is often about exclusivity — everyone desires luxury products, but not everyone can afford them. For those who can’t, we offer special editions, which still allow them to experience the brand’s essence. Martel is renowned for its cognac, particularly for its exclusivity, with the oldest and most prestigious stock of eaux-de-vie. We’ve carefully preserved this exceptional stock, hidden away in our cellars for years. This gives us the legitimacy to create such a collection.

While only a select few may be able to purchase these rare products, we also offer a range that lets consumers be part of the legacy, enjoying the same expertise and savoir-faire, albeit in a different form. It may not be the most prestigious option, but it’s still a part of Martel’s rich heritage, ensuring that everyone can experience a piece of this exceptional legacy.

How important is legacy storytelling in conveying the value of Martell and Les Futs Uniques de Martel to consumers?

When creating cognac, I focus on evoking emotion through all the senses. I listen to music while creating — classical for traditional cognac, and rock or rap for younger ones. The key is to engage all senses: sight, sound, and touch. I aim to create a connection through emotion rather than technicality. While we often focus on explaining the technical aspects of cognac, I believe emotions are universal. For example, when I describe cognac, I focus on the feelings it evokes rather than the technical details, since emotions can be understood universally, regardless of culture or language.

Within the whisky industry, how do you balance traditional craftsmanship with modern production techniques?

As a researcher, my role involves managing a team of cellar masters, master blenders, and researchers to create and age cognac. We’re also working on adapting to climate change by developing new distillation methods, creating grape varieties suited to changing climates, and updating our warehouses to withstand these changes. While preserving the unique qualities of our terroir, we must innovate to ensure sustainability. Cognac production is heavily regulated, and changing distillation methods requires convincing others that it won’t affect the product’s quality. I’ve spent years working on alternatives to traditional energy sources, proving they don’t impact taste.

While innovation is crucial, cognac production is tightly regulated, particularly around distillation, which is one of the most controlled processes in the spirits industry. Unlike whisky, where there’s more flexibility, we must work within strict rules. Changing production methods requires convincing colleagues and competitors that these adjustments won’t compromise the quality of the final product. For example, transitioning from gas-based distillation to more sustainable energy sources took five years of effort to demonstrate that it wouldn’t affect the taste. It’s about balancing tradition with the need for sustainability and ensuring that cognac production continues to evolve while maintaining the highest standards.

Les Fûts Uniques – GC 30 YO 

You play a key role in overseeing the production and maturation of eau de vie. What role does sustainability play in your production process?

We’ve also changed the way we manage our vineyards, aiming to have a minimal environmental impact. We’ve fully integrated biodiversity initiatives and have stopped using chemical products. This approach is crucial for us because our CEO often says that we’re producing products today that will be enjoyed by future generations. When you taste a cognac like the Cordon Bleu — which is at least 10 years old but often more like 20 or 25 years old — you realise that we must plan decades ahead. The expectations of consumers will only rise, so if we focus solely on the demands of today, we’ll miss what the future requires.

This is why we’ve been prioritising sustainability and environmental responsibility for so long. We are deeply connected to our terroir, and because cognac is a natural product, it’s our responsibility to protect it for the future.

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On a personal note, what has been your proudest achievement at Martell so far?

I’m extremely proud of what I’ve achieved, particularly in building a team that didn’t exist before. Prior to my time, Martel didn’t have a dedicated R&D department, but now we have a group of researchers — not just cognac specialists — who work alongside our traditional experts. When innovation meets tradition, something truly exceptional happens.

I believe this collaborative approach, combining research and legacy, will be my lasting legacy at Martel. I’ve also always wanted to bring an artistic touch to my creations. For me, emotion is key — every drop of cognac should evoke a feeling. I want to go beyond the traditional and inspire dreams through music, colours, painting, and even cuisine. It’s about creating something that stirs the soul.

Maison Martell has restated its commitment to keeping local heritage at the heart of the House. How do your personal values align with Martell’s mission?

For me, cognac is undeniably French, and embodies the French art de vivre. However, it’s important to remember that while we are based in France, our founder was actually British. From the very beginning, Martell has been a fusion of cultures, which is a key element of our identity. The first shipment to Singapore took place in 1868, so our connection with Asia goes back a long way.

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Today, Singapore has become a hub where cultures from around the world converge, and this is truly exceptional for us. It allows us to stay attuned to the desires and trends of various cultures while preparing for the future. In terms of sustainability and responsibility, I believe Singapore is the ideal place to emphasise these values. It’s no coincidence that Singapore is now the centre of our strategy for Asia, as it perfectly embodies the future we envision.

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